NigeS Posted August 27, 2023 Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 Fitting the Bastuck oil seal that is as the C Marx and doesn't require grinding of the crank. Looks reasonably straight forward but mentions using sealing compound on all contact surfaces when inserting the bearing cap and also “stick the seal ring into the seal ring casing by using a silicone based sealing compound”. Not sure what to use , but looking at it why wouldn't I used small amount Hylomar ? It will stick the seal as well as any and metal to metal on bearing cap also no problem. obviously I don't want to use very much of anything that may get in the oil ways. Great care will be taken. I was also going to use hylomar on the felt seals. Any thoughts much appreciated. Many Thanks Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 27, 2023 Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 Hi Nige, instead of Hylomar consider Welseal. This used extensively on engine parts and may have a better 'gluing' bonding action than Hylomar. The felt seals will absorb the Welseal more readily than Hylomar. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NigeS Posted August 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 Thanks Roger, never used Welseal bit confused when to use the different types. Reading Hylomar spec its good for engine components meta to metal and when Oil and petrol are about. Thats why I thought it might be as good as plus I have a tube ! The Welseal is another £20 plus a tube. Has welseal very different properties or is it just a different brand doing same thing? Used Hylomar on the sump gasket and it really stuck it on. But that could be very different on the seal. Ive not got your experiance on this. rgds nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 27, 2023 Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 (edited) Welseal is runnier when straight out of the tube, so will soak into the felt better than hylomar, when allowed to dry it is very sticky ! The reference to silicon is to stick the two ends of the CM rubber seal together once you have wrapped it around the crank I presume you have the mandrill required to centralise the seal ? Bob splitseal.doc Edited August 27, 2023 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NigeS Posted August 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 Thanks for the reply, better get some Welseal. Tiger seal silicone from Halfords be ok or do i need a specific type? Again never use silicone since it gave me probs years ago on a stag manifold. Yes I have the tool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NigeS Posted August 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 I think this type of seal is better than grinding the scroll off. I believe it keeps the factory balance on the crank and cant cause a weakness. I might be misguided but I also think it gives best of both worlds and should really fail to seal. Would this assessment be correct guys? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 27, 2023 Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 Hi Nige, the joint in the seal will be under compression when fitted so the silicon gasket/sealer just maintains position leak proofing. I used Iso glue (LocTite something) The mandrel is recommended to maintain centralisation of the seal when clamping down. The Rover seal, where the crank is ground away, is marginally better than the scroll seal - many continue to leak. The Chris Marx seal is a refinement that appears to work. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 The Marx seal effectively retains the functionality of the the original scroll seal yet adds in a lip seal running on the adjacent unscrolled part of the crank. The problem with the lip seal conversions is the need for them to be split to pass the rearmost part of the crank which has a greater diameter than the area that the seal needs to go on. This compromises them. The Marx seal, even if the new seal doesn’t work perfectly, has the scroll so you are no worse off than standard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 Do not forget to check the length of the flywheel bolts. If they protrude too far they will touch the new seal housing assembly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 18 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said: The Marx seal effectively retains the functionality of the the original scroll seal yet adds in a lip seal running on the adjacent unscrolled part of the crank. The problem with the lip seal conversions is the need for them to be split to pass the rearmost part of the crank which has a greater diameter than the area that the seal needs to go on. This compromises them. The Marx seal, even if the new seal doesn’t work perfectly, has the scroll so you are no worse off than standard. I believe the original lip seal outer shells are removed. There is a new scroll on the lip seal shells. Whether they are as good I'm not sure. However the whole point is the lip seal which works well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 If you follow the C.M. instrution sheet, you can modify the original outer scroll pieces, (which I did) Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 Thanks Bob. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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