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Water pump housing face scratches


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Hi, first post here!

I've got my water pump housing off (for cleaning and painting), I noticed on the water pump side there are some scratches on the mating face (which I may or may not have caused myself during the cleaning and painting process :unsure:).

I can't feel the scratches with my fingernail, but can just about with a pick.

Do I need to dress this face, or am I splitting hairs?

If I need to dress it, how should it be done? I'm guessing 180 wet&dry on a flat surface and drag the face across it till the marks are gone.

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If it wasn't leaking before you took it apart, then it isn't a problem. Just use a smear of Wellseal or Hylomar on the gasket. 

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Thanks for the heads up.

I had a spare hour so I cut a piece of greenhouse glass up and lapped the face with 280 & 140 w&d.

My philosophy is, if I remove it from the car it must go back in better condition!

I'll still use Hylomar on the gasket though!

As a bonus, here’s a video of the ‘mud’ I found in the heater valve!

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Edited by YellowSix
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Some ideas while you are at it. My steel heater valve extension tube was filled with scale down to about a 6mm hole in the centre- I replaced it with an all  SS component.

I also replaced the old diaphragm  heater valve with a Four Seasons ball valve- makes switching the heater flow on/off and setting the temperature magic compared to the original

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Have you considered running some radiator flush cleaner through your system? With that amount of crud in the heater valve, one suspects there could be more blockages.

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1 hour ago, Steve-B said:

Have you considered running some radiator flush cleaner through your system? With that amount of crud in the heater valve, one suspects there could be more blockages.

Yes, that's really why it's apart right now.

The engine water drain was clogged, it took wiggling a coat hanger in the hole to get it to flow again.

I've had the radiator and heater matrix are out and have been flushed forwards, backwards, and inside out.

The steel heater return tube is in bad shape anyway and will be replaced with a stainless one.

Most of the mud seems to have coagualted in the heater valve and stem, and the seals in the valve are toast. So for £10 I got a replacement and the original went into the 'I'll fix that someday box'.

When it's all back together I'll do a chemical flush, I've got a can of MOLY rad cleaner, I suspect it's just expensive white vinegar. I'd like to do a phosphoric acid flush, but I'd certainly have to plumb the aluminium heater matrix out of the loop.

Edited by YellowSix
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1 hour ago, YellowSix said:

Yes, that's really why it's apart right now.

The engine water drain was clogged, it took wiggling a coat hanger in the hole to get it to flow again.

I've had the radiator and heater matrix are out and have been flushed forwards, backwards, and inside out.

The steel heater return tube is in bad shape anyway and will be replaced with a stainless one.

Most of the mud seems to have coagualted in the heater valve and stem, and the seals in the valve are toast. So for £10 I got a replacement and the original went into the 'I'll fix that someday box'.

When it's all back together I'll do a chemical flush, I've got a can of MOLY rad cleaner, I suspect it's just expensive white vinegar. I'd like to do a phosphoric acid flush, but I'd certainly have to plumb the aluminium heater matrix out of the loop.

Well done.

Doing all of that should see you in fine form for keeping your 6 cool come the hottest days of summer!

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2 hours ago, Mike C said:

And you have replaced the short 2 pipe heater hose transition piece through the firewall ? I replaced my heater matrix last year and it's not a job I'd like to repeat.

Yes, I'm changing all the hoses to silicone.

I also decided to replace the stuck wiper rack, I'm having a heck of a time getting the bend on the end tube right!

Edited by YellowSix
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