Windscreen Frame/door glass to hood frame adjustment.

[Kenrow]

Any chance the Pilkington glass was the wrong part (maybe tagged with the wrong part #). Seems odd that Pilkington would not be using the triplex mold if they absorbed triflex. Any comment from whom you bought the glass from?

[PodOne]

2 hours ago, Kenrow said:

Any chance the Pilkington glass was the wrong part (maybe tagged with the wrong part #). Seems odd that Pilkington would not be using the triplex mold if they absorbed triflex. Any comment from whom you bought the glass from?

It's a possibility it has been labeled incorrectly but the width and length seem to be correct. Its the curvature that's wrong so I guess which ever the mould has being used is wrong. Probably Pilkington bought just the brand name and not the original tooling/moulds. 

No comment from Moss as I haven't as yet managed to personally go and return the screen. Might try if I have time tomorrow. 

[PodOne]

To complete the windscreen story I returned the Pilkington screen to Moss in Bradford who refunded me and said they are always a tight fit in the corners! So tight they don't fit.

Anyway I bought a screen from a local auto glass company in Leeds for £90. Sorry to say it was made in China but he said they make glass for new BMW and many others and he had had no issues with them. So I popped the old OEM screen back out and laid the old screen inside the new and it was a much closer fit in the corners and sure enough the new screen went straight in no issues at all .

Mr Triumph will be turning in his grave!

Hood frame to fit next and door glass to frame adjustments . The passenger side is perfect, drivers needs adjustment.

Andy

 

Edited April 13, 2022 by PodOne

[PodOne]

After the screen finally went in and following the advice above I fitted the hood frame and as advised the door glass angles to the screen frame changed and no where did the glass meet the seals - b----r ! So over the last few days I've had to try and get the door glasses to fit the windscreen frame and hood seals after reading lots of posts. Even so  I had to resort to a few extra ones of my own to get something that's acceptable even so it will get a further tweaking.

Ended up having to shim the front runners at the top to push the glasses back. The back ones I had to slightly elongate the two top holes to get more transverse movement of the glass which also pushed it inwards towards the cant rail seals along with adjusting the regulators. This evened out the frame to glass spaces each side and allowed the larger "P" seals to be used albeit the gaps are different each side . The drivers side is narrower than the passenger side as I suspect the frame has been used by the PO to pull themselves out of the car and deformed. 

Problem was that the top seals still did not still touch the glass so the Ali cant seal retainers had the slots lengthened along with those in the cant rails themselves. This nearly pushed them against the glass but not quite. So I pushed them further by adding an extra spacer to the hinge in the photo (7/16' half nylons on order) bingo nice rear seal. Last issue was the the front seal didn't follow the glass. My solution was to fit a foam wedge between the Ali cant seal retainer and the cant rail which did the job and created a seal. This will be replaced with a harder EVA material shaped to extend further forward to also fill a small gap between the front header rail although I expect the hood will cover it. 

In retrospect next time and to anyone self restoring a car I'd suggest fitting the frame, screen and door glasses before painting I only fitted the frame and thought that would be good enough as a reference to get the glass right- wrong.

[stuart]

Thats all very well but when you fit your hood you`ll find that the rear upright section of the hood above the "B" post will push the glass away from the seal at the rear. Also its pointless trying to assemble the door glass before painting as you can 100% guarantee once its all been disassembled and put back together it will all reassemble slightly different due to paint depths different tightness of bolts/sealer fitment etc.

Stuart.

[Waldi]

I think many of us learn by doing Andy, I did the same exercise;)

And then when I fitted the hard top, I had to remove the doorpanels again, for proper closing of the door glass.

Cheers,

Waldi

[PodOne]

Hi Stuart/Waldi

Sounds like every car is different in what's required to get a decent fit. Take your points Stuart but it must be worth pre paint fitting things up so a near ball park fit is seen as possible?

So is it best to fit the hood then adjust the cant seals which must be difficult with the hood in place?

I'll just have to wait and see what the seals look like once the hood is fitted if the gaps open up as you suggest at the B posts then I wonder if a different rubber profile with a bigger lip will make up the difference.

I can't wait!! 

Andy

[stuart]

15 hours ago, PodOne said:

Hi Stuart/Waldi

Sounds like every car is different in what's required to get a decent fit. Take your points Stuart but it must be worth pre paint fitting things up so a near ball park fit is seen as possible?

So is it best to fit the hood then adjust the cant seals which must be difficult with the hood in place?

I'll just have to wait and see what the seals look like once the hood is fitted if the gaps open up as you suggest at the B posts then I wonder if a different rubber profile with a bigger lip will make up the difference.

I can't wait!! 

Andy

The thing with the hood is depending on the make the section down to the "B" post i.e. the rear of the window opening fits behind the glass but often covers the end of the top rubber slightly hence pushing the glass away from the rubber, some hoods are worse than others. The green one below works OK but the Maroon one not so well.

Stuart.

[PodOne]

9 hours ago, stuart said:

The thing with the hood is depending on the make the section down to the "B" post i.e. the rear of the window opening fits behind the glass but often covers the end of the top rubber slightly hence pushing the glass away from the rubber, some hoods are worse than others. The green one below works OK but the Maroon one not so well.

Stuart.

Ah see what you mean Stuart regarding the hood potentially pushing the glass away now. The extra spacer I used will most likely make the issue worse so I've removed them as a result the top rear seals have opened up again.

Taking your points I have modified the seal channels using special plan Z to allow more movement and closed the top gaps with some spare adjustment if the hood does end up pushing the glass out. The last two pics show the results with some spare adjustment if/when required.

Andy

[stuart]

13 hours ago, PodOne said:

Ah see what you mean Stuart regarding the hood potentially pushing the glass away now. The extra spacer I used will most likely make the issue worse so I've removed them as a result the top rear seals have opened up again.

Taking your points I have modified the seal channels using special plan Z to allow more movement and closed the top gaps with some spare adjustment if the hood does end up pushing the glass out. The last two pics show the results with some spare adjustment if/when required.

Andy

 

 

 

You might want to just tweak the frame up a bit to get those two sections to meet fully.

Stuart.

 

[PodOne]

Thanks Stuart for all the tips and advice. 

The pic with the gap is because I'd not pulled the channel out they close nicely.

Andy 

[PodOne]

My frame came with the webbing removed so needs replacement. Anyone know the correct dimensions as to where it should be riveted prior to fitting the hood?

Or is there another better method?

Thanks

Andy

[stuart]

17 hours ago, PodOne said:

My frame came with the webbing removed so needs replacement. Anyone know the correct dimensions as to where it should be riveted prior to fitting the hood?

Or is there another better method?

Thanks

Andy

Depends on the joins in your hood, I use seat belt webbing from scrap cars, sew the end over back on itself to give a loop to fit the locating pin (A piece of thick welding wire will do)  Then put it through the rear plate of the hood with the hood laid back across the boot. Bolt the plate down loosely and erect the hood frame fully including clamping it down,, lay the webbing forward and pull it tight to the front rail and chalk mark it where it goes over the front of the frame. Bring the hood up over and forward and with a couple of bulldog clips clip it to the front then you can adjust your rear and centre bars to coincide with the seams in the roof and once youve done that youll be able to see where your webbing needs to be fixed to the bars.. There is a lot of backwards and forwards of hood and webbing to get them nice and taught just when the frame is clamped down but thats the principle. Ive no dought lots of people will point you at Yuotube videos of hood fitting but watch a few because not all are best practice, if your missus has any dress makers chalk of if you have a chinagraph pencil theyre good for marking stuff off, You do need the hood when fitted to go fairly tight before you get the locking pins clamped off but not too tight that you force them in as there is a possibility that will tend to pull the screen back which is annoying when youve gone to all the trouble of getting your glass gaps nice!

Stuart.

[PodOne]

10 hours ago, stuart said:

Depends on the joins in your hood, I use seat belt webbing from scrap cars, sew the end over back on itself to give a loop to fit the locating pin (A piece of thick welding wire will do)  Then put it through the rear plate of the hood with the hood laid back across the boot. Bolt the plate down loosely and erect the hood frame fully including clamping it down,, lay the webbing forward and pull it tight to the front rail and chalk mark it where it goes over the front of the frame. Bring the hood up over and forward and with a couple of bulldog clips clip it to the front then you can adjust your rear and centre bars to coincide with the seams in the roof and once youve done that youll be able to see where your webbing needs to be fixed to the bars.. There is a lot of backwards and forwards of hood and webbing to get them nice and taught just when the frame is clamped down but thats the principle. Ive no dought lots of people will point you at Yuotube videos of hood fitting but watch a few because not all are best practice, if your missus has any dress makers chalk of if you have a chinagraph pencil theyre good for marking stuff off, You do need the hood when fitted to go fairly tight before you get the locking pins clamped off but not too tight that you force them in as there is a possibility that will tend to pull the screen back which is annoying when youve gone to all the trouble of getting your glass gaps nice!

Stuart.

As you say there are quite a few YouTube vids to watch!

Just one question; The rear rail bolts direct to the deck allowing metal to metal contact and a nice moisture/rust trap around the bolt holes, is it worth applying a thin 2mm strip of EVA to the back of the rail to prevent rubbing?

Andy  

[stuart]

13 hours ago, PodOne said:

As you say there are quite a few YouTube vids to watch!

Just one question; The rear rail bolts direct to the deck allowing metal to metal contact and a nice moisture/rust trap around the bolt holes, is it worth applying a thin 2mm strip of EVA to the back of the rail to prevent rubbing?

Andy  

You could just use a bit of non setting windscreen sealer round the bolts as the hood material goes round the underneath of that plate so no metal to metal and dont forget the studs for the tonneau/hood cover should have a foam pad on the inner side to the body, part number 631771.

Stuart.