Mounting Engine on an Engine Stand

[NCS_TR3A]

Gents, 

   This site has been great to find information out and learn from those that have been there and done it. I took the gearbox out several weeks ago and changed seals etc (it's all in good condition but did leak oil). It appears the main source was the selector shafts and I have copied a few good ideas on here and that's now all done and ready to go back in. 

    However I've decided to take the engine out and change the mounts, the front crank seal and probably a Mad Marx rear oil seal as well. Oh and this will probably lead to a bottom end overhaul just by the very nature of the work. It's a first for me so will be taking it slowly. 

    I'm at the position that I have the engine out, but I'm looking at how to mount it to an engine stand that's new to me. I'm assuming that you mount on the gewr box end. The bell housing bolts are 5/16" UNC 18tpi. They would need to be about 4" long to go through the mount plates. 

   Is this the right way of doing it. 5/16 seems a little slim to me but I cannot see any clever alternative?? 

Neil

[Motorsport Mickey]

Welcome Neil... however...you are a wuss !

A single 5/16th bolt is good for the weight of the engine, forgot what the shear is on one now... but loads. Fit 4 together and it will also take all the pull, push, twisting you’ll be doing.

Oh and the front pulley needs 120 lb ft to tighten.

Mick Richards

[NCS_TR3A]

Thanks Mick, if its 120 lbs ft to tighten I bet its a lot more to get it off. I'll get myself The worst I've had is on my sons car, a 2005 Freelander front wheel hub nut which was 295 ft lbs. Didn't have a torque wrench for that one, had to work out a way to do it. 

Neil

[Lebro]

         

I used some 5/16" cap head high tensile bolts, from here :   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114282833207

Bob.

[NCS_TR3A]

3 hours ago, Lebro said:

         

I used some 5/16" cap head high tensile bolts, from here :   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114282833207

Bob.

Thanks Bob, similar set up but I think I need 5 inch bolts due to the length of the tubes on the stand. I like the stepped washers you have made. Looking to do the same as those tubes are 16mm ID so plenty of opertunity for the load to shift as you turn it over. 

     I'm sure I'll be back for more advice as I try to strip the engine further.

Neil

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Hi Neil

This has been covered before.....

Not sure if you rear oil seal instructions include this but the flywheel bolt length must be checked that it does not protrude through the crank rear flange and touch the new seal housing.

Peter W

[NCS_TR3A]

9 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Hi Neil

This has been covered before.....

Not sure if you rear oil seal instructions include this but the flywheel bolt length must be checked that it does not protrude through the crank rear flange and touch the new seal housing.

Peter W

Thanks Peter, 

   I've read a lot on the upgrade and had picked up the bolt clearance check. Whilst I've done a lot on cars I've never actually taken a bottom end apart before so it's going to be a journey for me. Head stuff quite a few times and bodywork etc but never into the main part of an engine (or into the internals of a gear box either but not doing that this time). At the end of the day it's mechanical and if you take your time and follow the rules it generally OK and always seems more scary than it really is. Fingers crossed. Bolts ordered to mount the engine and plenty to done to keep me busy

Neil