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About NCS_TR3A

  • Birthday 12/11/1970

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warrington, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR3A

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320 profile views
  1. Actually filling through the hole is possible, but it takes time. Warm up the oil, suck it up into a syringe and the pump into hole. It's a lot quicker if you have an assistant turning the steering wheel from side to side (wheels off the ground). It does take some time and best doing it over a few days to allow the oil to flow down the column. I've just done this last weekend whilst the engine was out. You don't need the engine out to do it obviously, it was just an opertunity to have clearer access. Neil
  2. Hi Hamish, On mine, TR3A the thread on the arrow furthest right is 3/4" 16 tpi. Not sure on the other, possibly the same but never had it out. Neil
  3. I've been using penrite for a while now, worked well and no noticeable wear in the box so far. My only concern would be getting it out if I deemed in necessary to change it........ But its still looking good (I actually checked this the other day before the plan to put the engine back in this weekend). Oh..... And it does leak out. Neil
  4. Tr2_applegreen, That's a really nice car as it is but I can see that without bumpers it might compliment the look you are after. You would get a good idea of what it would look like if you take them off for a bit. I can see the numbers add to the look as well. It is all personal choice and you will get 100 opinions. I would do what you think works for you, but try not to do anything that isn't reversible as 3ven our tastes change over time and we end up looking for something different. I do like the back bumper on the front. They look as if they belong there. Neil
  5. I think in this case he's on about a fully tinted screen. It will be a very light colour. I personally cannot imagine it will make a difference on value of the car. If you were selling it as concours standard then the make of the screen might matter but that's all, and it would be very picky. I think if you look on moss website they have pictures of clear and tinted screens. In real life I don't think the difference is that noticeable on a screen as there legally has to be a high level of light transmission which limits how much tint can be applied.
  6. I've been taking my time on this but there have been a few discoverables through this rebuild and a lot of learning on my part. Main discoverables which were all new to me - (1). Engine has 87mm liners in it. (2). Camshaft is a standard TR4 item. (3). Conrod bolts had no locking tabs and we the non stretch type (lucky on that one) (4). Rear scroll seal was correctly adjusted (no wear) but hadn't been sealed to the block or each other. (5). Timing chain very slack I'm waiting on locking tabs for the con rods as I don't feel happy taking that chance. O
  7. It wouldn't be the same................ ........ Without the oil leak
  8. Richard, If you raise the piston slightly (there is a rod you can push up on the side of each carb that does this and its part of the tuning) then ideally you should see little change for a while followed by a slowing down, this suggests the mixture is right. If on raising the piston the engine starts to stall I think that suggests that carb is weak. If it speeds up its rich. I'm not sure changing the needles will fix this for you. Most of the needles recommended for these engines have a very similar idle profile. They differ in areas away from the idle. It sounds like yo
  9. Mick, you were absolutely correct. Pistons needed some help to move. I can see the crank could come out with the front plate on. Certainly easier with it off, but then it's easier with the engine on a stand upside down as well compared to roadside from underneath. I'm actually surprised how good all the parts are (except for the chain and Tensioner which were worn). Hadn't realised I had 87mm Pistons until this either. Neil
  10. Hi, happy for the questions to come.... Better now than when it's all back together. To answer, it was not good. The seal was very hard (compared to the replacement). Because of this (well I assume because of this) there is a groove in the pulley hub. I have actually got a speedi drive for this. I've got 99175. I think I'd read a post from you on here saying both work but 99175 needs less thinking about (that's made for me) I've ended up putting a speedi sleeve on the real diff (the shaft was pretty good in reflection), the rear gearbox shaft (slightly pitted, same issue) and will do the
  11. Thanks Bob, I've not used TR Shop before, I'm based in Warrington, so normally have used TR Bits and Moss (Manchester). With most things by post now it doesn't really matter. I have ordered earlier today what I need from TR Shop. Im planning on fitting the Mad Marx kit, the one that comes done rather that machine the one I have. Not that I don't think I could, although it is a consider action I was just logging on to ask a question which the attachment answers which is great. I was going to ask what sealant to use on the aluminium plate. There was nothing on the ones I took off. Di
  12. Hi John, I think they have stopped the 14mm version and basically they sell the 10mm version and adapters for 14mm. I'm not certain but it's what it looks like to me. And you are right the ones on ebay are making daft money, I was watching one the went for £86. I'll have to make do with one, was considering a second. Neil
  13. Well, there's no going back now. The crank is out and on the desk. Everything carefully logged. Actually there is little to no wear on anything, only the timing chain was outside tolerance. Just need to order what I need now and hopefully get it all back together. Happy with what I've seen so far, no big surprises but it was running well, just leaking oil from front and back. Neil
  14. Hi Charlie, Here is a photo of the spring
  15. Hi Charlie, I take a photo with a tape later tonight and reply here. They arent expensive but you cannot beat a free one (if you already have it). Neil
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