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About NCS_TR3A

  • Birthday 12/11/1970

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warrington, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR3A

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201 profile views
  1. I had the same issue as the opening poster. The guage never used to flicker and then one day it just started. I had the added issue in that the guage would read 1/4 full when it was empty (took me 23 years to find that out as I never let it get lower than this until it just died). I found the fault for the flickering to be exactly as Bob has described above. The level was fixed by a little bend on the arm but also a slight alteration to the angle of arc of the sender as it appeared to be catching the side of the tank on the way down which might have been the root cause for the l
  2. Ian, Thanks to the reference to the brass adaptor from Revington. I've been through the issue of removing a stubborn blub a few times, first time I broke it and since then if I've ever needed to remove one I've had to take the thermostat out and poke my finger trough from the inside to push the bulb out. For refence the liquid in the bulb is ether, it's a liquid at room temp, above 36 degrees it will ignite and quite a powerful flame. I think it's used in products like easy start which gives you some idea. It's a real bugger to get into the bulb and form a solder seal but i
  3. Thanks Guys. All sounds sensible way forward. Neil
  4. John, we're I have written needles resenting after taking the choke off, I meant jets resetting (going all the way back up). I guess the same as Iain is suggesting. Neil
  5. Thanks guys, yes I plan to use the supplied grease for the SuperPro bushes. I was really asking what grease to use on the lower inner metal and nylon bushes. Sorry I wasn't clear on that. Neil
  6. John, I wasn't clear on my reply, I think when I had this issue it was solved by changing a float what had liquid in it. I then had further issues because clever me took out the distributer whilst refurbing the carbs and hadn't realise the timing was out when trying to set up the carbs. I've attached a copy of the info for setting up the fuel level. The view is it can lead to flooding and I think this is what was happening, particularly at tick over where you mostly spend you efforts trying to get the fueling right. When I reved the car the colour tune was always
  7. I quite like that, I know it might be too white for some. The chrome part on the hardtop is an add on I assume? Neil
  8. Thanks Andrew. So upgrade to the SuperPro full kit which covers everything other than the bottom and leave the bottom standard on nylon bushes but use the poly sealing rings that come in the kit. Using copper grease for the metal bushes on the pin and standard for the nylon to metal bush. All sounds good, thanks Neil
  9. Thanks Peter, I've just spent the last two hours trying to remove one of those metal bushes. One came off with a little persuasion, the other just would not budge. Ended up cutting it with a demel and trying drift with a cold chissel. Didn't want to cut all thw way through and damage the pin. Finally only budged it with heat. I was going to ask if anyone else had gone through this pain but sounds like it's the norm. Still contemplating the Bush to use and if I go with nylon (which seems to be the standard) what it should be lubricated with when put back together (assuming I sti
  10. Hamish, John, Thanks for both your thoughts. John you mention properly lubricated, I note there are no grease nipples on the inner bushes. I assume you mean properly lubricated during instillation. Do these require a specific grease at assembly. They were extremely dry on taking apart but they have been in 25 years. Thanks, Neil
  11. Looking for a bit of advice in relation to the front end suspension rebuild. I'm going the Polybush route but I notice that the SuperPro kit doesn't come with lower inner bushes. I definately need to change these in the rebuild. Mine is a 1959 TR3A and I note early cars had rubber in the inner Bush but later (like mine) used a nylon insert. It looks like there are a few options in Moss - Polybush (but if this was the right option surely they would be included in the SuperPro full kit) Nylon - looks like whats in the Bush at present (but worn) Nylatron - doesnt really say if t
  12. Hi John, I had this for years without being able to solve it. I think based on your discription the jet is probably going to be worn. You might actually be able to see it if it bad. The hole will look oval rather than round. If that's happened then the needle will be worn as well. As Ralph has said the level in the float chamber can make a big difference and so you need to check that the valve shuts at the right height. On rebuilding the carbs this time I didn't really find anything massive (lots of small things and one that I think solved it). But on putting it all back together it ende
  13. Thanks Bob, PayPal is good for me too. A quick question on consideration of fitting reversing lights (to the back indicators). Is there an option on the TR3A box to make these come on with reverse? I haven't looked yet but cannot see anything in the books. I think it's a nice idea but I'd probably only go down that route if this can be done. But I am thinking of how to put a switch in without it looking naff. But certainly put me down for 2 x stop/ tail lights and 1 x stop/ number plate light. That would be great. Thanks, Neil
  14. I guess so, but the number is just less than 60k. I guess I'll never really know if that's how it was built or if the has been some part switching (more than the ones i know about) Thanks and interesting to hear there are others like this Neil
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