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About NCS_TR3A

  • Birthday 12/11/1970

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warrington, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR3A

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240 profile views
  1. Gents, Thanks for the replies. I've no major issue taking off the front apron, done this before with no major consern. I'm slowly going around the car changing rubber parts as they have been in for 27 years. So engine mounts and gearbox mount are on the cards as well. The only thing that puts fear up me it taking the crank off a perfectly running engine for a small oil leak. I'm pretty sure it is the rear oils seal as I've been through this before. It's not a big leak and everything else seems dry. I've had the gearbox off before to look for leaks and at that time I deduced it was
  2. Thanks Roger, that makes total sense. And oops on the Karl Marx, comment. Different chap all together. Neil
  3. Ralph, Main thing is she's OK. Everything else is something you learn. Had a similar experiences (1) with my sons first car (but not as bad). It lost 2 nuts (or bolts as they were on that car) and two remained on, one loose. The car was new to us and whilst I'd serviced it we hadn't had the wheels off. (2) on the TR3 itself. My farther used to drive it. I think we've had it 27 years now. I got a call to say the front wheel had come off in the early days of ownership. Everyone was OK and actually I was surprised the car was in reasonable condition (disk had a flat spot from
  4. Hi, I'm looking for some advice. I'm working through jobs on the TR3A through lock down. Not a great deal to do at weekends. I took the propshaft off to change the seal on the diff, have found some grinding on one UJ so changing both so I don't end up doing the a year later. I've been thinking about the rear Crank seal which has the usual smallish leak. Been like this for years and I'm not at a point I want to take the engine out for this. Although I plan to change the front crank seal and the engine mounts so would be part way there. The thought of removing it and taking the cran
  5. Just really to add, I did it on a cheap bench drill. I also soldered in the pins, which I'm sure some would frown on but it's a belt and braces approach. One way on understanding if this is the issue is by looking at how much play there is with the idle adjuster. If the screw is nearly all the way out then it's going to mean the arm is lower (closer to the cam) than it could be. If I'm honest, Ralfs photo shows this to some degree. In my case it was slightly worse than this on one of them. I really would try to get this bit right and then work from there. It made the car so much easier to get
  6. Richard, I don't have a spare because I've filed down the one I had doing something similar to you. I'm actually on the look out for a original as well. However they are quite easy to make, I have a few home made ones. I'm more than happy to make you one and send it to you and you can file it to match your original or into any other shape you want. Having gone down this route I found that the issue was with the position the arm had been connected to the butterfiy spindle. The hole was drilled in the wrong position and the arm was lower than it was meant to be. I ended up rebuilding th
  7. Adrian, Having recently done this I can say yes to the stretching over the washer and splined washer, tried different ways but this was the only way that worked. What have you fitted to the lower inner arms? If you have fitted poly bushes to these then you don't need the other 8. These were mean to be used with the standard nylon bushes that were used in that position on the later side screen cars. I must admit, I've gone for poly bush in this area as well so I'm in the same position. I think from a handling point of view the nylon bushes on the low inner is what people recom
  8. This is a really good read. Always fancied rebiulding an engine (I actually have a spare) but after reading this I'm not sure I have that skill. I do have access to a lathe (a big one) but most Knowledge with watch making lathes. It's a great write up Bob and I'm learning a lot (some of which is just how difficult this is). But it's clear you have a keen eye for detail. Keep the reports coming. Thanks, Neil
  9. Thanks Rob, I do know what these are now. Yes will give this some consideration as I'm not sure how long they have been on. Probably 18 years now. Neil
  10. Hi Ralf, Not sure I know what rim tapes are. I changed the tyres 3 years ago, not because the they were worn, just because they were around 15 years old. The tyres have inner tubes fitted. I'll be Googling rim tapes now Neil
  11. Gents, It's a really interesting conversation. I have all the spray kit but I wouldn't say I do a lot so spraying. A lot more when I was younger. The wheels are not that bad but I have tried to spray one of then with silver with slight metallic base coat with a plan to spray a 2 pack lacquer over it. The base coat has reacted and so I'm into a bigger job. The 2 pack doesn't react though (I tried just to check) So now I think I'm into shot blasting anyway, so tyres off and blast. With this in mind I thought I might as well get them done well. From what I've picked up you
  12. Thanks Guys, interested to hear why not powder coated? I think that's what they are now. I have tried to paint one but it reacts with the coating. Not sure if that means it cannot be powder coated as an original coat or not. Neil
  13. Hi all, A bit of a long shot but does anyone know a company in the North West (UK) that strips and repaint wire wheels? Thanks, Neil
  14. Mine (sliding joint) is at the front and I think that's were its meant to be but assume you could turn the prop around so it's at the back. Not sure if that would give an issue. I have greased from underneath which is difficult and have gone through the access hole as well. To be honest either way is difficult.
  15. Mine is a 59 TR3A, it has the prop hole and seal (which has a little bit of the same issue but not as bad). It doesn't have the hole for the gearbox level check, but the gearbox doesn't have that level check on it either being a later car. Must admit though that the uj at the front is self sealed on mine, just the one at the back that needs greasing.
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