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About NCS_TR3A

  • Birthday 12/11/1970

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warrington, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR3A

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552 profile views
  1. I would also agree with this. It makes it all a lot easier, although I did remake the half moon and also filed the teeth in the pull out shaft to give it more to hold onto. What ammuses me about this is that your method to twist the wire is straight forward, I'm sure I'd did something that was far harder (like trying to pull the whole shaft out and twisting it whilst holding the other end .... I think I missed the obvious and the simplest solution. A little embarrassing. I'll know for next time Neil
  2. As it seems to be with everyone else, I fitted to the hardtop and then added the perspex to it. I think I did use sealent around the perspex just before adding the locking strip. If you get a leak it's usually were the screen joins the rubber and not where the rubber joins the bodywork in my experience. Use lots of soapy water when fitting the locking strip and follow Hamish's advice in ensuring the join for the rubber is at the bottom and the join for the filler is at the top. I guess you could do it the other way around but I was always told to do this. I found it easier to do with the hard
  3. Ralph, Way off topic, but what did you think of the Morgan tour. I've never done it but it does interest me and interested to get your opinion for the tour. Neil PS not planning to sell the TR3A and switching to Morgan
  4. Hi Ralph, Mine is presently running well but I recognise the symptoms you have described. I'm not sure how I fixed mine (it might be a different pump) and think I will test the fuel presssure. Out of interest what fuel regulator have you used and were have you placed it. Thanks, Neil
  5. Roger, I think you've written that somewhere else on the forum as I remember reading it fairly recently when I was doing this job and followed this as well. Ali, Its's a little fiddly but far less scary than it all sounds with regards getting everything back in and in the right place. I guess the risky bit of undoing the square bolts on the selectors without snapping them has been done to get to the stage you are at so it's all just reassembly. Good luck and it sounds like you have found the problem. Neil
  6. Hi Ali, As Roger has said the top of the gearbox needs to come off and be checked. As pointed out, there are some ball bearings located on the three shafts that are there for safety, stopping you selecting more than one gear. I suspect like Roger has pointed out that there is something missing here. It's a top of the box off and strip down to check. Neil
  7. Thanks John, Yes presently I'm ignoring it as it goes as soon as any increase in revs or driving. You do have to be listening for it also. When you say grind the rockers smooth, would this be possible just using a file and then wet and dry or do they need to be hardened on something after getting the face smooth. Neil
  8. Thanks Guys, I had never heard of setting tappets hot before. I have this tappet sound at tick over ~750rpm, it goes if the revs increase and certainly not present underload (not small end). It comes from around the middle of the rocker cover. I'll rechecked the tappets and they are good. I've read a few different things suggesting an exhaust leak can sound the same but I cannot find one. On searching the forum I found something suggesting it could be wear in the rocker shaft itself. Any views on this. Neil
  9. Just watching wheeler dealers on Quest. They are doing a Austin Healey 3000 Mk3. Very nice. Ant just made a comment about not setting the tappet gap to 12thou at the moment as this needs to be done hot?? Is this right? I thought you set them when the cold and this gap was the amount that closed up as the engine warmed up. I've set my tappet gap when cold, is this right for a Triumph or do I need a bigger gap, set them when the engine is hot? Neil
  10. One thing to remember is not to go too far...... Its needs to disengage when you switch off otherwise you will damage the unit. It is a little fiddly to set up but make sure you check it disengages cleanly as well. But it does sound like it needs to go that little bit further as Roger has already stated. Neil
  11. Wow, when I started replying there was no other reply to this :). You guys type fast Neil
  12. Hi Rod, It's normal for the ammeter to shoot up for a second but it should then drop. The Soleniod has two coils, both are activated initially (this is when the amps go high) to pull the shaft up and engage the overdrive. Once the shaft is fully up one of the coils disengage and amps drop. Sounds like you have a solenoid issue. Might be stuck but I'm guess you will be needing a new one at the very least. Neil
  13. Ralph, Thats exactly what mine was like before I changed the oil at the first service. Ie the pig to get into 2nd until warm. All gears were a little harder but 2nd was the pig. I have no idea what was in it but suspect it was 90 grade. The only issue with going thinner would be the risk of oil leaks. 40 does seem to be the preferred "thin" oil. Glad to hear its working though and I guess you can live with it until you have time etc. Neil
  14. Yer it was one of those days were it was hot but could have been a lot hotter without clouds. Sounds like you had fun and a successful day. Neil
  15. I'm using Sae30, mainly because that's what it said in the manual. I must admit that the gearbox used to be a liitle difficult until warm when I first got it (25 years plus ago). On changing to Sae30 the gear change was a lot easier so I guess it was some what thicker originally. I've just put the engine and gearbox back in a few weeks ago and found that setting the overdrive up was a little trial and error. As you stated the system in the book doesn't work (or didn't for me). I actually ended up with it engaging but not disengaging. So had to back it off a little. Now it seems to be right but
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