Clutch Pivot Shaft and Fork

[RMP NC]

I ended up having to cut out my original shaft and fork setup as the pin was sheared and stuck.  Drilling and driving it out failed to get it out as I slightly missed the pin with my hole and drilling another would not have worked.

I have ordered from moss the new shaft and fork which were made for a 4A but say in moss can be used for the 4. 

What adjustments to the setup must I make to use this? The new shafts don’t have grease nipples nor the meant to secure shaft on the outside of the transmission with a bolt I believe but not sure.  My original shaft was secured with an external bolt but didn’t have any nipples in either end.  Maybe they were long removed.
 

With the new setup I assume the bushings in the case remain and the spring between the lever and case remain.  What means of attachment, etc apply?  Any other concerns or easy upgrades here while it is right in front of me?

thank you-

[james christie]

Worth changing the bushes while you’re in there - it’s an easy job. 
 

james

[pfenlon]

and double up each side with 2 more bushes.

[RogerH]

You do not need the fixing bolt or spring to hold the shaft in place.

The fork pins will centralise the whole assembly - as per the later cars (TR6....)

Also do not forget to ADD another  pin to assist the taper pin. Usually a roll pin at 90' to the taper pin.

Do a simple check to ensure that the splined GB input shaft is concentric to the release bearing slide nose. I had a problem here a couple of years ago.

Roger

[RMP NC]

Thanks for the confirmation on how it works and the good advice.  I’ll definitely add another pin 90 deg off the taper pin.

thanks again