Andy303 Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 (edited) I have been chasing a torque steer issue with my 67 TR4A Solid Rear Axle that i acquired last year. I have repaired bad spring perches, replaced the rear leaf springs, U-bolts, and bushings, all of which has eliminated most of the rear end wiggle on hard acceleration, yet some persists, enough to be annoying. One possibility is that the axle tube on the left side is moving in the differential housing. A small oil leak from the join here may be indicative of something amiss. My belief is that the previous owner tolerated the problem for a long time, when that could have been fixed, and it eventually took a toll on the axle tube. I have discussed the issue with Mark Macey, a well known TR specialist on this side of the pond and he says he has encountered a number of TR4A SRA cars that have had bad torque steer issues and a loose axle tube was found to be the problem, to be cured by welding the axle tube to the housing in situ with the car on its wheels. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Is the differential housing cast iron or cast steel? Welding the axle tube is a commonly done on for extreme off-road machines ( big tires, big horsepower, high lift suspension, etc). Those guys run a continuous bead around the joint using high heat which is not something that could be done with the axle in the car. I am hoping that a few stitch welds would be sufficient. Another idea would be to install a Racetorations axle brace kit. Overkill perhaps but easier than pulling the entire axle assembly out. Thanks, Andy Edited September 10, 2020 by Andy303 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Are you sure the axle is not moving back & forth over the leaf spring location. Sometimes the hole in the mounting plate (on the axle) which takes the top of the bolt passing through the spring gets worn to be oval, allowing the axle to move back & forth under braking / accelerating. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Have encountered the axle tube moving in and out in the diff casing. Welding in situ, with special 'Disimilar' metal rods, cured the problem, and was a simple cure. I didn't do the job, but could find out more if needed, but all you need is a competant stick welder. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Yes they can be easily welded in situ, easier if the diff is drained first. The Racetorations brace is a good addition if your going to drive the car hard. I have also found its beneficial to add a pair of spring clamps each side to stiffen the spring rate as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy303 Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 4 hours ago, Lebro said: Are you sure the axle is not moving back & forth over the leaf spring location. Sometimes the hole in the mounting plate (on the axle) which takes the top of the bolt passing through the spring gets worn to be oval, allowing the axle to move back & forth under braking / accelerating. Bob. Quite sure, now. It was indeed badly ovaled on the LHD side. We welded new plates on the perches on the bottom side of the axle to deal with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 OK, that's what I had to do with my '3 many years ago. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy303 Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 5 hours ago, John Morrison said: Have encountered the axle tube moving in and out in the diff casing. Welding in situ, with special 'Disimilar' metal rods, cured the problem, and was a simple cure. I didn't do the job, but could find out more if needed, but all you need is a competant stick welder. John. John: Any info would be helpful. Some searching on the net indicates that welding rod with high nickel content is recommended for welding steel and cast iron. How much surface preparation or pre-heating is required? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 I,m away just now, l,ll need a day or two. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Ok so rods my contact used where Eutectic 680, John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy303 Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Thank you John! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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