TRbeginner Posted July 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 All, The little crashpad activity has now moved on to removing/stripping the heater. The matrix looks OK (to an untrained eyed) - no sign of leaks etc. The blower works too. I expected to find 50 years of birds nests, undergrowth etc inside the casing, but no....only a couple of pieces of shredded kitchen roll. I guess they got to close to the blower - pleased I found them!! Cant for the life of me work out why someone might do that, but each to their own.....certainly hasn't happened during my ownership! I've also been doing a bit of rewiring here and there. The plastic insulators for the spade connections were ordered from Autopsarks, but are oversized, square section (see image below). Does anyone know of any outlets that sell the snug fitting, rounded type a la the originals please ? Looking forward to starting the re-assembly soon! Thanks all. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 These maybe better https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAR-Terminals-Spade-Cover-to-fit-6-3mm-Spade-Pack-of-200/254051634805?hash=item3b26a84e75:g:2xQAAOSw6xZerXQb Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Hi Dave, oddly what they call cold air coming out of the 'heater' is quite good on a really hot day. It can get very hot in the foot well. Whereas when you come to put warm air on the screen/windows the engine needs to be hot. This is not the case first thing in the morning. Also mist on the screen will come off quite well with'cold' air. Stick with standard. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Hi Dave, it is good to flush the waterside of the matrix too, first blow out with a water hose, then fill with a hot water- citric acid solution, keave for some time, and then flush with water again to remove all the acidic products. I “borrowed “ some acidic acid powder from our kitchen, it is used to remove chalk from water cookers etc. This will restore water-side heat flow. The foam seals I replaced with simple foam with a sticky side which is normally used for house applications to reduce draft. Waldi Oh, and you you should change your forum name, if you can remove a heater, you are no beginner:) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted July 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Hi Waldi, thanks for the compliment. Reading some of the messages on here I very much still feel like a TR beginner - there is so much knowledge here!! I do admit to knowing my way around cars back in the day though - a lot of time building cars and competing in road rallies in the 70/80s. Then a huge gap and only came back to wielding a spanner a few years ago when I bought the TR5, so quite rusty, a bit like the battery tray! I've given the matrix a flush and reverse flush and released quite a lot of crud. Have some limescale remover in the kitchen so may play with that. Have planned to replace the foam, but hadnt thought of sticky sided - was going to glue, but will have a good look around for your type. Thanks for the info, and will look at that name change - an original choice that will date eventually - I hope ! Regards Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Dave - I've just done this job as well and used the following self adhesive draught excluder seals around the matrix - worked a treat! https://www.toolstation.com/stormguard-epdm-weatherstrip-p-profile/p85197 https://www.toolstation.com/stormguard-extra-thick-weatherstrip/p39239 Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 17 hours ago, stuart said: These maybe better https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAR-Terminals-Spade-Cover-to-fit-6-3mm-Spade-Pack-of-200/254051634805?hash=item3b26a84e75:g:2xQAAOSw6xZerXQb Stuart. Thanks Stuart, looks more like it. Have ordered a bag. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 (edited) 15 hours ago, rcreweread said: Dave - I've just done this job as well and used the following self adhesive draught excluder seals around the matrix - worked a treat! https://www.toolstation.com/stormguard-epdm-weatherstrip-p-profile/p85197 https://www.toolstation.com/stormguard-extra-thick-weatherstrip/p39239 Cheers Rich Hi Rich, thanks for the tip - will take a look. Also need to find foam for the inside of the vent flap at the bottom. This seems to be thinner and I guess the strip is too wide to find any self adhesive pieces? Dave Edited July 12, 2020 by TRbeginner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Hi Rich, thanks for the tip - will take a look. Also need to find foam for the inside of the vent flap at the bottom. This seems to be thinner and I guess the strip is too wide to find any self adhesive pieces? Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 17 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Dave, oddly what they call cold air coming out of the 'heater' is quite good on a really hot day. It can get very hot in the foot well. Whereas when you come to put warm air on the screen/windows the engine needs to be hot. This is not the case first thing in the morning. Also mist on the screen will come off quite well with'cold' air. Stick with standard. Roger Hi Roger, thanks - the good thing about this forum is that there are many ideas - people solving problems in different ways, different priorities etc etc. In this case I will take your advice and stick with standard. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 22 hours ago, TRbeginner said: Hi Waldi, thanks for the compliment. Reading some of the messages on here I very much still feel like a TR beginner - there is so much knowledge here!! I do admit to knowing my way around cars back in the day though - a lot of time building cars and competing in road rallies in the 70/80s. Then a huge gap and only came back to wielding a spanner a few years ago when I bought the TR5, so quite rusty, a bit like the battery tray! I've given the matrix a flush and reverse flush and released quite a lot of crud. Have some limescale remover in the kitchen so may play with that. Have planned to replace the foam, but hadnt thought of sticky sided - was going to glue, but will have a good look around for your type. Thanks for the info, and will look at that name change - an original choice that will date eventually - I hope ! Regards Dave Dave, when I restored my first TR6, around 1990-1994, there was no forum, in fact, there was no internet. I managed, but nowadays with the forum I know (learnt) and can check things I was not even aware of then. Bu in 1990 it was so much easier, with all NOS parts available in abundancy, 5 miles from where I live, from a guy named Kees Reehorst, who passed away much too young. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted July 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 20 hours ago, Waldi said: Dave, when I restored my first TR6, around 1990-1994, there was no forum, in fact, there was no internet. I managed, but nowadays with the forum I know (learnt) and can check things I was not even aware of then. Bu in 1990 it was so much easier, with all NOS parts available in abundancy, 5 miles from where I live, from a guy named Kees Reehorst, who passed away much too young. Cheers, Waldi Life gets ever more complicated Waldi.....but forums like this are fabulous for learning and knowledge sharing. Just out of interest are the technical articles from TR Action indexed anywhere on here? I vaguely recall a few years ago there was an intent by the Club to do this, but cant find it. Maybe Im wrong. D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 Hi Dave, I have the technicalities on a CD, that I cannot access with my modern lab-top. Think I made a copy in the past. Tbh I do not know if they are available on the TR Register website for members, others will know. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 Hi Dave, on the front page of the website 'Home' page under resources there are a number of technical subjects (you need to log in) - gearbox & OD, Clutch, engine etc etc. I'm sure the office could supply a technicalities CD if asked - look on the club shop. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted July 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 19 hours ago, Waldi said: Hi Dave, I have the technicalities on a CD, that I cannot access with my modern lab-top. Think I made a copy in the past. Tbh I do not know if they are available on the TR Register website for members, others will know. Cheers, Waldi Thanks Waldi, will take a look Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted July 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 18 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Dave, on the front page of the website 'Home' page under resources there are a number of technical subjects (you need to log in) - gearbox & OD, Clutch, engine etc etc. I'm sure the office could supply a technicalities CD if asked - look on the club shop. Roger Hi Roger, just opened a can of worms. Whilst I can log into the forum, I am not abale to sign into the main site. Have been in touch with the office and they are mystified so are getting a technical person to take a look. I wonder if they have their own forum to resolve tricky IT challenges ........? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 19 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Dave, on the front page of the website 'Home' page under resources there are a number of technical subjects (you need to log in) - gearbox & OD, Clutch, engine etc etc. I'm sure the office could supply a technicalities CD if asked - look on the club shop. Roger You see? Help is never far away on this forum, thanks to Roger. I had the same issue (am a member too), a couple of years ago, an e-mail to the kind people at the office and it was solved within a day. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul steven Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 When restoring my tr4 I had a similar looking dash top panel I went to my local car trimmers they made me one one with good quality vinyl with a stitched front edge which sets it off nicely everyone at car shows says how good it looks with the front edge stitched. i had to repair the foam myself I used small amounts of expanding foam and sanded back to original form,a perfect base to retrain. regards Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Morning all, looking forward to a gorgeous Sunday morning in the garage here! I little advice need please....just re-assembling the heater I dismantled recently - a good clean, flush and new foam, but I now have a 50/50 chance of locating the heat exchanger the correct way round. Does the long connector mate with the top or bottom hole in the side plate? Omitted to take the photo prior to dismantling Im afraid. Also, when it was removed from the car, one of the three grommet style rubber mounts was missing. Are these available anywhere? Moss catalogue states not available. Thanks all, enjoy your day in the sun. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Hi Dave, I've just looked at a video clip of my heater rebuild and the short pipe is the lower one. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 9 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Dave, I've just looked at a video clip of my heater rebuild and the short pipe is the lower one. Roger 9 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Dave, I've just looked at a video clip of my heater rebuild and the short pipe is the lower one. Roger Hi Roger Thanks for your help and confirmation, all back together now. Starting to head in the right direction at last. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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