Ian Vincent Posted June 9, 2020 Report Share Posted June 9, 2020 I took my TR3a for its MOT today and whilst it passed without any issues, the mechanic pointed out that there was quite a lot of play in the rear hub bearings. They weren't noisy but they had quite a lot of play. It's a while since I touched them but I don't recall it as being a simple job to adjust them. The only way that I can think of doing it will be to remove the half shaft and adjust the shim pack between the brake back plate and the rear axle, which will be a pain as I have to remove the six set screws with their locking tabs etc. Is that correct or is there an easier way? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted June 9, 2020 Report Share Posted June 9, 2020 I fear that things are just beginning! I don’t see how these bearings can be adjusted. Yes you have to remove everything and they will have to be changed with a heavy press and then you get to adjust the shim packs to ensure thefloat is right. The WSM is pretty helpful. I’ve just been through this exercise so pm me if you need encouragement. I just hope you take a bit less time to do the job than I did! See my earlier post james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2020 I wasn’t planning to replace the bearings, just adjust the clearances (assuming that’s the problem). Rgds Ian PS does anyone near Frome have access to the proper Churchill hub removal tool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 9, 2020 Report Share Posted June 9, 2020 3 hours ago, Ian Vincent said: I wasn’t planning to replace the bearings, just adjust the clearances (assuming that’s the problem). Rgds Ian PS does anyone near Frome have access to the proper Churchill hub removal tool. Not near but I have one. Was it proper rock in the bearings or in-out movement that he picked? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2020 Unfortunately Stuart it was a proper rock, however when he spun the wheels they were both silent, there was no rumbling that you would typically get from a shot bearing. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 10, 2020 Report Share Posted June 10, 2020 To adjust the bearing you do not need to remove the hub from the half shaft - so no special tool required at that point. The hub needs to come off if the bearing is to be changed. First thing is find out what level of end float you have. Are the rear brakes oily? MOT man should have spotted that. As James has written the bearing adjustment needs to be done by fitting or removing shims on both sides of the axle. That means the dreaded tabs need knocking flat and a thin walled 1/2" af spanner slithered up the gap to undo the 6 bolts on either side. PM James as he has just done this. See his photo of measurement setup Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2020 Thank you Peter et Al, It confirms what I thought, I need to knock the dreaded tabs as you call them, flat and play around with the shims. Fortunately I kept a record of the shim thicknesses from when I rebuilt the axle so I will start with the side with the thicker shim pack and measure the end float. Hopefully I only have to adjust one side. Does anyone know how much end float there is on the thrust block in the differential? In other words what is the maximum difference between the thicknesses of the shim packs on either side before it exceeds the available float in the thust block and becomes an issue? And nope, the rear brakes aren't oily, in fact the MOT man complimented me on how good the brakes were, both foot brake and handbrake were spot on. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 10, 2020 Report Share Posted June 10, 2020 The end float should be 004" to 006" but you are supposed to equalise the shims to get the thrust block centralised though in practice that can be difficult to get exact, I do have some shims in limited sizes if your stuck. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2020 45 minutes ago, stuart said: The end float should be 004" to 006" but you are supposed to equalise the shims to get the thrust block centralised though in practice that can be difficult to get exact, I do have some shims in limited sizes if your stuck. Stuart. I have loads of shims thank you Stuart, I am hoping to limit my strip down to one side only. - it depends how much play there is when I remove the rear wheel and brake drum to measure it Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 10, 2020 Report Share Posted June 10, 2020 1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said: Thank you Peter et Al, It confirms what I thought, I need to knock the dreaded tabs as you call them, flat and play around with the shims. Fortunately I kept a record of the shim thicknesses from when I rebuilt the axle so I will start with the side with the thicker shim pack and measure the end float. Hopefully I only have to adjust one side. Does anyone know how much end float there is on the thrust block in the differential? In other words what is the maximum difference between the thicknesses of the shim packs on either side before it exceeds the available float in the thust block and becomes an issue? And nope, the rear brakes aren't oily, in fact the MOT man complimented me on how good the brakes were, both foot brake and handbrake were spot on. Rgds Ian This is memory only as I do not have al the bits to measure, just the pin and a GKN plate type LSD thrust button. The pin is 5/8" and the hole on the thrust button is 3/4". Giving you at least 0.050" clearance either side to play with. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2020 18 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: This is memory only as I do not have al the bits to measure, just the pin and a GKN plate type LSD thrust button. The pin is 5/8" and the hole on the thrust button is 3/4". Giving you at least 0.050" clearance either side to play with. Cheers Peter W Thks Peter. 50 thou should be enough. I only have just over 30 thou of shims each side. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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