TR4 Rear Mains oil seal kit

[North London Mike]

Hi Guys

TR4 Rear Mains oil seal kit

 

Just a quick question. Anybody fitted either the Cambridge Motor Sport or the Revington kits.

 

Any good, did they work, stop the leak, slow it down, more bother than they are worth ?

 

Feed back wanted

 

Thanks in advance

[marvmul]

As far as I know these kits are very effective. I've fitted 2 of them myself : no leaks.

The crankshaft has to be grounded, to 64mm diameter, with radiusing to the flywheel flange. The neoprene seal is splitted, but this seems to be no problem. The crankshaft has to be removed from the engine.

[Bill Wirz]

I've tried the Payen conversion from Moss. Crank ground to 63.5 mm. LEAKED ! Pull the motor and now will try the racetorations conversion. I've read a lot of positive and negative feedback reg. these conversions.

If I had to do it over, I would leave the orig. seal. There are shops that will "blueprint" your seal to give you tighter tolerences. My crank is already ground so I can't.

Here is a link reg. this conversion. http://www.socaltriumphs.org/docs/mainseal.htm

 

Bill

[marvmul]

I've tried the Payen conversion from Moss. Crank ground to 63.5 mm. LEAKED ! Pull the motor and now will try the racetorations conversion. I've read a lot of positive and negative feedback reg. these conversions.

If I had to do it over, I would leave the orig. seal. There are shops that will "blueprint" your seal to give you tighter tolerences. My crank is already ground so I can't.

Here is a link reg. this conversion. http://www.socaltriumphs.org/docs/mainseal.htm

 

Bill

Although 64mm is what was recommended to me, I suppose 63.5mm should be alright. The neoprene lip is easily damaged when pulled over the wider flywheel flange of the crankshaft, and leaks can also occur past the alloy housing that hold the seal. Also leaks between engine block and rear main bearing cap are also common.

[North London Mike]

Thanks Guys

Keep them coming..........more to learn

[MikeF]

Fortunately for me this is still an in theory zone, but to summarise Williams in "how to restore a TR4 and 4A", you grind the original scroll sill off and fit a lip seal. These are available from all TR specialists and are based on one from a LandRover, The diameter you grind to is apparently best left to the supplier of the particular seal you are using as they change slightly from time to time.

[The book takes a whole page to say that and there are some nice pictures.]

[Bill Wirz]

Well I just got my new seal from racetorations. I'll have to send it back because their seal requires the crank to be ground to 64 mm. I've already ground the crank to 63.5 as required by the payen brand. So I'm stuck trying the payen seal again. This is really becoming a headace. I' post back after doing the new seal for the second time.

 

Bill

[marvmul]

Well I just got my new seal from racetorations. I'll have to send it back because their seal requires the crank to be ground to 64 mm. I've already ground the crank to 63.5 as required by the payen brand. So I'm stuck trying the payen seal again. This is really becoming a headace. I' post back after doing the new seal for the second time.

 

Bill

Perhaps you can ask Racetorations if you can fit their seal on a 63.5mm crank, becausI suppose both kits use neoprene seals of the same dimensions(the standard range of seals won't include 2 seals with only 1/2mm difference).

[scv]

Mike

 

When I did mine I spoke to Martin at Revington who helped enormously. They recommend a diffrent crank diameter to other suppliers. When I reground mine to his spec the seal worked perfectly.

 

Steve

[North London Mike]

Thanks for the updates guys

 

Does the 4 pot leak from anywhere else (might as well get it all sorted)

 

Not obvious with the current film of oil

[marvmul]

Does the 4 pot leak from anywhere else (might as well get it all sorted)

 

Not obvious with the current film of oil

The 4 cyl TR engine can and does from about all the joints. Most leaks are not annoying, the rear crank seal is the worst I think, but also the rocker cover, oil filling cover, sump(front and rear), distribution drive cover, distributor, front crank seal, oil level stick, fuel pump, oil filter housing, oil pressure line, etc... are mostly not oil tight.

[Bill Wirz]

I've read quite a few posts where people have set up their motors with the TR-4A P.C.V. system. This is a closed system that keeps a slight vacuum in the crankcase. The vacuum gets rid of crankcase preasure which causes the oil to be pushed out of the seals. Also, I've gotten rid of all my leaks, except the rear seal, by using silicone as a sealer. I've even installed the sump without a gasket using silicone (all surfaces have to be clean!)

 

Bill

[North London Mike]

Glad I asked

 

What this PCV system, who makes it (if not Triumph) and how much

[Bill Wirz]

Here's a link to Moss, and it shows the system. It was installed on TR-4A's and some TR-4's as an emission control. This type of system was common in California on all cars, and was required by law. The breather pipe was removed and the hole plugged. An eared oil filler cap was installed on the valve cover instead of the breather.

 

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProduct...ndexID=29123#60

[Bill Wirz]

Back to the rear oil seal conversion,

After looking at the reacetoration conversion kit, I noticed the seal looks exactly like the payen brand. I also noticed that in their instructions the size of the crank grind was crossed out and replaced with 64 mm.. But on their web-site it shows to have the crannk ground to 63.5 mm.. Maybe they were having problems with the smaller size.

 

Crankshafts & Rods

Cat No Item Type Part No Price

35 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal 4 cyl. RCT11 £45.00

Kit

An effective oil tight lip seal complete with its own alloy housing as a straight replacement for the existing

system. Crank scroll does need to be removed to fit this kit. This can be done when regrinding. Kit comes

with full instructions. Grind crank scroll to 63.5mm.

[Bill Wirz]

Well the car is back together. I used the racetorations conversion kit and it doesn’t leak a drop. The length of the spring that is used for the lip seal for the payen conversion is 8 ½” compared to the racetorations conversion at 8 ¼”. Ken, at British Frame and Engine, had suggested cutting the spring down to 8”. He has done many of these conversions with no problems using this method. Hope this helps someone.

 

Bill