iain Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Well you live and learn. As we all know the scroll oil seal has been a bone of contention for many years. Tr’s just love to mark their territory, but like many things in life this is not now so socially acceptable Of late the K Marx seal seems the favoured solution. However this leaves probably many owners with cranks that were machined to take a lip seal in the 70’s 80’s and 90’s. I bet there are many owners like me who still have a crank lip seal that leaks? Some discussion on this with a well known West Country supplier has revealed what a complete Horlicks ( other malted drinks might be available)was made of making these lip seal kits! Some facts The seal chosen was a 2 1/2 “ double lip ......Landrover. So why did the purveyors of said kit insist that the crank be machined to 65mm?! The correct dimensions is 63.5mm and no less! So this should fix the leak? Wrong! The seal housing has to locate the seal and be machined to its dimensions. Many supplied are too deep in the channel and allow the seal to sit were it likes..... not necessarily centred! So this now fixes the leak? Wrong! The original Stanpart scroll seal was undercut on the block side to ensure a leak free mating face. The ones supplied by numerous outfits were not undercut so oil leaks from this area. So in summary 1. Was your crank machined to the correct dimension? 2. Is the housing a proper job? Undercut rear and correct channel size? If not and you weren’t aware of the above, like me, you now know what to do. if you have heard it all before apologies, but newer owners might find it useful. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 That LR conversion has been a bone of contention for years as the measurements were never consistent, it always makes me laugh that the grey Fergie doesnt have the scroll but has a lip seal instead, obviously theyre never going to be doing the same sort of RPM but its still makes you wonder why. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 .....and don;t forget the Australian twin 'O' ring seal http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/technical/scrollseal.htm This may fit onto the LR mod'd crank. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Yes I got caught by the 'machine to 65 mm sir' 20 year ago. The engine litterally dripped when stopped and ticking over. I removed the flywheel could see the dribble when the engine was running. (Got the engine warm by starting with the gearbox out, removed flywheel and re-started the engine using the starting handle) Bought a replacement seal from CME and had them re machine the seal area to suit the seal they supplied. - that stopped the dribble. If it dribbles again I will renew the seal and fit the Australian double 'o' ring option. If that fails I will have to break out my last NOS crankshaft. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 Copied here from another post to ensure it’s seen. the issue is that Dennis Welch of AH fame designed the original lip seal conversion ( something they did to Big Healeys as well) and specified the dimensions of the crank to be 65mm for a Landrover seal. The Landrover seal, is for a 63.5mm journal! Why he did this we will never know, but its wrong. Also the housings supplied to carry the seal were very poorly made and as in Revington technical sheet https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1026k/name/seal-kit-rear-crank-gaco-tr2-4ahave errors that also cause leaks poor alignment etc. In talking to Neil R this is why he decide to make their own and market them in a Black anodized finish so that they knew what seal was fitted, the others are just about impossible to identify. Moral of the story, make sure you know what you fitted, where it was sourced, what the spec of the seal is, whether the housing actually fits the block, whether it holds the seal correctly and then install with care. Cheers Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dick Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 On 4/15/2020 at 9:35 AM, stuart said: That LR conversion has been a bone of contention for years as the measurements were never consistent, it always makes me laugh that the grey Fergie doesnt have the scroll but has a lip seal instead, obviously theyre never going to be doing the same sort of RPM but its still makes you wonder why. Stuart. Apparently the Fergy had the crank seal because it was expected to operate at gradients that could get the sump oil level above the rear main bearing and therefore leak oil by gravity especially when stationary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 2 minutes ago, Dick said: Apparently the Fergy had the crank seal because it was expected to operate at gradients that could get the sump oil level above the rear main bearing and therefore leak oil by gravity especially when stationary. Good point thank you Dick, I know you have more experience of them than me, Ive only restored a couple of them and not really thought about it like that. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dick Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 7 minutes ago, stuart said: Good point thank you Dick, I know you have more experience of them than me, Ive only restored a couple of them and not really thought about it like that. Stuart. Which is also why the 'split' in the seal goes at the top.........a mine of useless information!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 1 minute ago, Dick said: Which is also why the 'split' in the seal goes at the top.........a mine of useless information!!! No its all useful information. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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