MARK Posted January 8, 2020 Report Share Posted January 8, 2020 I remember an article in the Mag about a heater modification that took the feed for the heater matrix from the water pump housing. I noticed that my TR6 CR has a blanked take off already. I presume that a TR 250 housing which would have the take off for the heated carb manifold , has been fitted in the past. My question is,- If I took the feed from the this blanked off outlet to the control valve would the water temperature be higher than the current set up that feeds the control valve via the extension adapter from the cylinder head.? My heater is a Clayton uprated one but I am still disappointed with output. I have an uprated control valve ready to fit with higher flow (FX Taxi !!) so was thinking of doing the mod at the same time if there would be an advantage. MARK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted January 9, 2020 Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 Hi Mark, I'm not sure what the mod that you're referring to is, but as far as I know in the TR6, the heater matrix feed already comes from the back of the water pump housing as per the attached pic. This was mine prior to strip down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MARK Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 Hi Sean I am pretty sure that is the return pipe from the heater matrix to the water pump. I notice from your picture that you appear also to have a blanked outlet higher up on the side of the thermostat housing. I can see the blanking bolt head. Maybe I should have said thermostat housing instead of water pump housing in my post. What I need to know is if i take the feed from this outlet on the side of the THERMOSTAT housing will it provide a higher temperature than the normal feed at the other end of the cylinder head. A great picture Sean which helps explain what I am trying to suggest ! I hope !!! MARK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MARK Posted January 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2020 I was also thinking that using a copper pipe to do this mod mounted close to my sports exhaust manifold and under my triple weber carbs, to feed the heater, might pick up some radiated heat from the exhaust manifolds. This might also give faster demisting ?? !! MARK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted January 10, 2020 Report Share Posted January 10, 2020 Mark, Of course you are right. The pipe in my picture is the return pipe. I'm afraid I don't know the answer to your question and hopefully someone else will. What I can say is that I rebuilt mine in the same configuration as before but with a new stainless return pipe, heater matrix and heater valve and the heat output is very good indeed. Probably too good. Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 10, 2020 Report Share Posted January 10, 2020 5 minutes ago, SeanF said: Mark, Of course you are right. The pipe in my picture is the return pipe. I'm afraid I don't know the answer to your question and hopefully someone else will. What I can say is that I rebuilt mine in the same configuration as before but with a new stainless return pipe, heater matrix and heater valve and the heat output is very good indeed. Probably too good. Sean Hi Mark, I agree with Sean! Are you sure that the M/S pipe from the bulk head to pump is not blocked or restricted or the M/s pipework through the bulk head, as this fitting rots and collapses. I have had problems in that area in the past, and would only use s/s replacements now. Lastly make sure that the heater valve is fully open in the open position? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted January 11, 2020 Report Share Posted January 11, 2020 What temperature thermostat is fitted, that will determine the hot of the heater, do you have a heat gun available to check what heat is where? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MARK Posted January 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 Thanks John. I do have a lazer thermometer. Should be able to see which feed is hottest with it. Maybe the copper pipe run close to the tubular exhaust manifold might help. Going to check the return pipe for blockage as well. Going to go for winter rated thermostat. You can bet I will get it going red hot by summer!!!! MARK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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