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More Overheating


Guest Paul J B

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hi Paul

 

i had this over heating problem,

it is a air lock in the head

i drilled and taped the thermostat cover

5mm screw with a fiber washer on it

heat the engine up and then open the screw

(wearing a glove) the air comes out like a pressure cooker

 

quick and clean

 

pink

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Pinky - I suspect you are creating a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

The water pump is low enough that any air in the block will blow into the rad and self bleed.

If a small amout of air remains in the cooling system it should significantly affect the running temp.

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Pinky - I suspect you are creating a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

The water pump is low enough that any air in the block will blow into the rad and self bleed.

If a small amout of air remains in the cooling system it should significantly affect the running temp.

 

 

Correct

There is not and never will be a need to vent the stat housing

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The rad on my 6 is tilted forwards so the filler is an inch or two lower than standard. No problems with air locking despite that and longer top hose. Cooling is fine, manual electric fan.

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Pinky - I suspect you are creating a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

The water pump is low enough that any air in the block will blow into the rad and self bleed.

If a small amout of air remains in the cooling system it should significantly affect the running temp.

 

hi andy

 

i appreciate what you have said and i agree

 

however through my own experience i have found that air can remain in the

head, the bleed screw is an easy solution to remove the little air that remains

it also gives one peace of mind that the air is removed

 

pink

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With regard to the hot running I would reccomend checking the rad. My car ran hot and the root cause after much messing about was that the rad was a 3 row version instead of 4 row. easy to see the difference when you look through the core as 3 row shows much more daylight or count the rows!

 

Mark.

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