john.r.davies Posted July 26, 2018 Report Share Posted July 26, 2018 One problem I had to deal with was that the alternator I had fitted to the generator mount, rotated on the same axis as the engine pulley. The new belt from engine pulley to alternator just moved round the engine pulley, it never got tighter. Had to make up a spacer for the generator/ alternator mount to alter the centre of rotation. Could then tension the new belt. Exactly the problem I had, LJ, see post 8. I retained the mechanical pump, but made it a mere idler by grinding off the vanes inside. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 Hi Guys This is getting very complicated. Last night I went for a drive of 45 miles at 6:30 p.m. when the air temp was still 33ºC (We are due 40ºC over the weekend) The engine in my TR3A ran at slightly BELOW the normal running mark, and I didn´t even run the Kenlow at all, it does have a manual over-ride switch I installed an aluminium ducting in the front of the radiator with a top plate as well four years ago, and that seemed to be the answer to my overheating problems in summer here, however I did fit an uprated pump impeller at the rebuild stage, and a remote balance tank.when I returned from CLM in 2010 as we boiled at least 7 times with the water being ejected onto the road. I will be helping my friend Nigel to install his CD 80EWP in his MGC when it arrives next week, he did not come with us last night for fear of overheating, he has a long climb on a windy road going home and it is usually busy in the holiday season even at night. One thing I did use is my new homemade SURREY top (superb effect) like the one Don in USA saw a year or so back, I will ask Tom Holland to put the pics on the forum for me in the next few days, as I can´t do it. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.