OIL FILTER BOWL SEALING

[steve26]

Hi,

 

When I bought my 1958 TR3A 2 years ago, there was a slight leak from the oil filter bowl. Tightening of the retaining bolt solved this.

 

1st oil & filter change I did last year I did get a seal OK, although was surprised at how tight the bowl bolt had to be to achieve this.

 

Yesterday I did annual oil & filter change. I am again getting a slight drip, and feel I should not tighten the bolt any more than I already have.

 

Considering the bowl is centralized by the outer rim of the upper housing, and sits on a sealing ring I would have thought it should seal Quite easily without too much tightening of the bolt, despite having to withstand 70psi.

 

I used the thicker of the two alternative seals supplied with the new filter. The leak seems to emanate from the 'bowl to housing' joint and runs down the bowl.

 

I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on this.

 

Also, I understand that fitting a 'spin on' filter makes the job of replacement easier and cleaner, and prevents oil draining back into the sump. What are general opinions on this?

 

Any thoughts on above would be appreciated.

 

Thanks, regards

 

Steve

 

 

[Richardtr3a]

The filter comes with a selection of rings and only one will work.

 

I have changed the filter on my 3A a lot but usually leave the ring as it seals easily.

 

Check the rings. Someone on here will know ?

 

Richard & H.

[RogerH]

Hi Steve,

have you removed ALL of the old seal(s) in the housing.

They can get very hard and although you think they are all out they may not be.

 

If you over tighten the big bolt there is a chance that you will distort the seal that is in there.

 

The spin on filter Mod' can be very good. However people have had trouble but once sorted is usually OK. Mine works fine

 

The spin or standard cartridge can dump some of their oil back into the sump - they are not sealed as such.

 

Roger

[steve26]

Hi Rodger,

 

Yes, I did dig out the old seal. Replaced with the thicker one of the two supplied with the new filter.

 

I did not over tighten initially - oil everywhere. But have progressively tightened it, still slight leak.

 

Steve

[iain]

It depends which housing body you have as to which seal is correct, I think.

 

Is the seal a good fit for the groove.....blasted awkward to check but you will have to.

 

The rings used to be coded, with one or two stripes across the outer edge to help in identification......don't know if they still are?

 

Iain

[steve26]

Hi Iain,

 

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

The new seal did seem to be a good fit. I put the front end of the car on axle stands, so had a good view.

 

Seems a fool proof method of replacing the filter, cannot imagine what the problem is. No apparent marks or other damage to either housing or bowl.

I think if the bowl was possibly distorted, it would not fit in the recess.

 

As Rodger commented, over tightening could distort the seal. But I have tightened it progressively, leak has reduced, but not 100%.

 

Seems to me, only other option is to fit a Spin on type, which should at least make things easier in the future.

 

I used to have a TR6, which I changed to Spin on. Changed lots of filters with no problem.

 

I normally do a full service including change filter and oil every year. I often wonder if this is strictly necessary as annual mileage is about 1500 miles. Maybe every 2 years would be OK.

 

Regards

 

Steve

 

[bnw]

Make sure the can does not spin as you tighten the bolt. The slightest rotation will disrupt the seal.