Richardtr3a Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) I have the front panel from my TR3A is away at the repair shop. At present there is easy access to the front of the engine. I have replaced the front oil seal and the timing chain and tensioner, The water pump pulley was loose and has been replaced. The pump has new bearings which cost more than a replacement pump. This afternoon I started on the engine mountings which are clearly visible. There are two fixings to the chassis and one to the engine. It is quite difficult to undo the rear chassis nut and bolt. The forward chassis bolt has a welded nut on the chassis and is therefore easy. The main fixings to the engine plate are straight forward. I have two three questions. Why does the rear chassis bolt have a spring washer and a nut, and not a captive nut? It makes it very awkward to tighten. Why are the steel plates fitted above and below the actual mounting? They are very hard to line up so that the rear bolt will slide through. How can I tighten the dynamo pulley? Is there a secret to locking the dynamo so that I can tighten the pulley fixing nut? After a few hours struggling in the cold and then nightfall I begin to think that some of this car was designed on a Friday afternoon when the team were in a hurry to get away. Thanks for any advice, Richard & very patient H Edited February 3, 2016 by Richardtr3a Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Smith Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Richard In Answer to your questions 1. I have no idea either! 2. There are some steel spacers that fit between the mounting and the chassis - the idea being to raise the front of the engine so as to provide clearance between the bottom pulley and centre tie rod. Also to ease changing of the original fan belt. According to the S-T parts book the shim was fitted between the engine mounting and the chassis. 3. Purists will no doubt throw their hands up in horror but the way I did mine was to loosely assembly the pulley on to the dynamo make it finger tight then put the whole assembly in a vice using the pulley to suspend it. You can then tighten the pulley so that it won't come off. Worked for me for many years without problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) About the pulley : all you have to do is to put the V belt in the pulley, THEN tighten it in your vice. The V belt will avoid any damage to the pulley. Please allow one more question : where did you find your water pump bearings ? Edited February 3, 2016 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Safest way to do up nuts on things like dynamos is to use an impact wrench then the pulley does not need to be held tight and there is no possibility of damage. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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