AlanT Posted January 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 You may find your wiring-loom quite puzzling when connecting this later type of motor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 It was! although I find any wiring puzzling that's why I got a couple of mates round to help(not that that went totally to plan as soon after one was diagnosed with Alzheimer's!) We did have to add one or two extra wires from memory (I'm with my mate on that one) so now it should be a little easier as its "just" a switch change? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 I think it's that the old motors have a "permanent" 12V and the switch in the ground side. Later motors are grounded permanently and have the switch in the 12V side. Hopefully someone can confirm this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 I think it's that the old motors have a "permanent" 12V and the switch in the ground side. Later motors are grounded permanently and have the switch in the 12V side. Hopefully someone can confirm this. Yes that is correct Alan CRT -TR2 and some TR3 - Has power make or break at the switch and the motor is permanent earth. ( no self park) DR2/3/3A - TR3/3A/3B/4/4A/250/5 - Has power continuous at the motor and the earth make or break is done with the switch (Has self park) 14 / 16W - TR6/7 - Has power make or break at the switch and the motor has permanent earth (has self park) I have ignored speeds here. The usual TR2/3/3A wiring loom confusion comes at the wiper motor connections as the factory repair op manual only shows the TR2 CRT non self parking wiper motor. To get the self parking wiring diagram one used to have to look in 'TR3 Practical Hints and Tips' which was the factory handbook for that model. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 If you look at the end of a DR3A you see a milled slot above the 12V terminal. They did this so they could use a spade terminal with a key on the side. This stops 12V and switch getting interchanged. There would have been lots of grief with burn-out parker switches I expect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 mmm, we did burn one of those out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 If you put 12V on pin 1, which seems logical, the parker will short it to chassis for you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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