Peter Cobbold Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 ....on the 6. One has fractured and been lost. It was a USA import 20 years ago...cant find supplier in UK : any suggestions? ( have searched Rimmers, Moss, R'storations, Jigsaw, Revington, Or is there a near-equivalent that can be 'adjusted' to fit? Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Addco I would guess was the USA make of rear anti roll bar http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/ Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) Addco I would guess was the USA make of rear anti roll bar http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/ Cheers Peter W Many thanks Pete, The 014 end link kit they list for the TR6 looks right: http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/triumph/ I'll try to find a UK supplier. cheers Peter Mustang '67-'70 uses an 014 kit: http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/ford/ And this is cheap enough in UK to take a punt: https://mustangmaniac.co.uk/part/53/4168/68-73_sway_bar_end_link_kit Edited July 3, 2015 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) I am not happy with all that links provided with the rear anti roll bar. What we need is a 10mm hole in a not too thick plate and not that big hole in the aluminium casting that is good for nothing. So all solutions with the big plates over and under the hole look ugly. I prepared an aluminium part that looks like a cylinder hat. Outside it has a 4mm ring sitting under the spring what makes the rear come 6mm higher. Should be matched with a proper spring. Than the part has a tube that fits inside/upwards the spring and on top it has a 10mm hole. Any suitable linkages from modern cars can be mounted like those with two ball joints or similar to the lower connection with rubber at the front antirollbar on both sides. Do it once and fit and forget! http://www.ebay.de/itm/2x-KOPPELSTANGE-PENDELSTUTZE-STABISTREBE-VORDERACHSE-TOYOTA-YARIS-P1-VERSO-P2-/111577760005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item19fa8d8105 Edited July 4, 2015 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Andreas, What a coincidence !, I had also ordered those Yaris drop links as they are about the right length. How thick is your aluminium disc that fits under the spring where the bolts load is taken? 2mm ? does not seem thick enough ? A sketch would be useful ! Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Peter due to language problems and no photo it might be a bit difficult to explain: All material is about 4mm and it has this shape and fits smooth inside the spring and sits on the lower rest of the spring: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_hat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Thanks Andreas, I'll work from that. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I used standard TR6 front arb drop links on my rear Triumphtune bar. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I used standard TR6 front arb drop links on my rear Triumphtune bar. Jerry Jerry, The arb I have has an eye that connects to a drop link fed through the centre of the spring recess in the trailing arm. As Andreas says its not an ideal arrangement. If I moved the arb rearwards there might be way to use the front drop link - but I think the t/a would need drilling - does Triumphtune rarb need that? I've never seen one - is there a link? Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Peter, Triumptune supplied a mickey mouse bit of stud which went in the bin. I fabricated a plate and bit of angle to bolt through the t/a spring recess and then used a standard front arb drop link. I'll take a photo later this evening - the car's up on a axle stands at the mo while I refurb the handbrake. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) Pictures. Edited March 9, 2020 by jerrytr5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) Jerry, Thats very useful thank you. Your drop links are rather longer than the Addco. My arb eye sits up onto the t/arm separated by just the thicknes of a rubber 'washer' about 1cm thick. As the 6's suspension is lowered to about 4-1.2inch clearance I dont think I'd have enough clearance for the full length front drop link. < talking rubbish ! I like the idea of using stock TR parts even if modified, so will look at spare front drop links to see if I can rework one to fit Addco-fashion. Or if I can easily remove the spring, replicate your design, but with the ball joint within the base of the spring. Peter What I do find with the lowered suspension is the chassis bushes get hammered hard by grounding on uneven surfaces... Edited July 6, 2015 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Hi Peter, The drop links have never touched ground - don't forget they go up with the wheel. The ARB brackets have bottomed out, so if you see from the pictures I had to fabricate a skid plate to protect the bracket. I think I'm probably running about the same ride height as you. Ideally I would have liked to put the ARB above the chassis rail, but that's a whole different kettle of fish. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 All done, and nothing failed on a shakedown 40miles drive on our buuumpy roads. Used the Mustang rubbers cut down a few mm, new 41/2 inch HT bolts and thick steel washers to fit the bolt. The original arb kit used a ca 2cm thick ali washer with the top cm tapered to fit into the underside of the trailing arm That had been lost. So had to hacksaw two cm thick washers off a round bar and Tig them together. First ever Tig weld went OK, but at 1 cm thickness it was never going to be a challenge. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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