Paulc Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Hi All As a novice getting and eager to get head reworked to stage 2 and unleaded conversion, I used the rope in the piston trick to get the head off, after wrestling with it for some time and managing to get all but 2 studs out using the 2 nut process. well the head popped off with a quick turn of the starter. But when all was back together with reworked head and fast cam timed in, the engine developed a knocking sound meaning the Big End were gone, which was not the case before the rebuild. I changed the big end bearings which has resolved the knock. I have put this down to the Rope method and do not recommend it although I am sure my crank is loving the new bearings Wish me luck its MOT tomorrow and a pair of HS6 SU’s Saturday, then Sunny Summer Driving from then onwards Your naive novice Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Hi All As a novice getting and eager to get head reworked to stage 2 and unleaded conversion, I used the rope in the piston trick to get the head off, after wrestling with it for some time and managing to get all but 2 studs out using the 2 nut process. well the head popped off with a quick turn of the starter. But when all was back together with reworked head and fast cam timed in, the engine developed a knocking sound meaning the Big End were gone, which was not the case before the rebuild. I changed the big end bearings which has resolved the knock. I have put this down to the Rope method and do not recommend it although I am sure my crank is loving the new bearings Wish me luck its MOT tomorrow and a pair of HS6 SU’s Saturday, then Sunny Summer Driving from then onwards Your naive novice Paul Good luck with the MOT tomorrow Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 If you are going to use the old rope trick, you need to get rope in more than one piston in order to spread the load . . . . otherwise it's lifting on the p*ss, which is likely to do no good at all to head or crank. You should NOT then use the starter . . . . . . the crank should be turned by hand, as in socket on the end of the crank and a good extension bar . . . . . and turn very slowly and carefully, you're trying to ease off the head gently, not shock load the damn thing with the starter . . . . if all you've done is knock out a bearing then you're lucky, it's not difficult to banana the crank. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) If you are going to use the old rope trick, you need to get rope in more than one piston in order to spread the load . . . . otherwise it's lifting on the p*ss, which is likely to do no good at all to head or crank. You should NOT then use the starter . . . . . . the crank should be turned by hand, as in socket on the end of the crank and a good extension bar . . . . . and turn very slowly and carefully, you're trying to ease off the head gently, not shock load the damn thing with the starter . . . . if all you've done is knock out a bearing then you're lucky, it's not difficult to banana the crank. Cheers Alec could it have bent a rod causing the end to knock out...... Edited July 1, 2015 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 very possibly, unfortunately, and that will become evident as the revs increase during running-in . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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