TR4A1965 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 With the bodywork well underway now and an expected completion at the end of February 2015 the engine has gone to CCK Historic for the rebuild. CCK are fitting 89mm pistons and liners, a slightly hotter camshaft and doing a little work on the cylinder head. The increase in capacity should make the biggest difference with a flowed head and camshaft to give it that little bit extra. So far the block has been acid dipped and is awaiting the new liners. The crankshaft has been ground and is now getting balanced along with the flywheel, clutch and conrods. The cylinder head is also getting some work by CCK. The engine had been converted to run on unleaded at the Thanet Engine Centre prior to it being given to CCK. You can see how we are getting on and learn a bit about CCK here: http://tr4a.weebly.com/engine-rebuild-at-cck-historic.html They are local to me in Kent/Sussex. They have their own cool little motor museum and they look after a few racing TRs. Best Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Nice collection. Worth a bob or two. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Looks good Paul I'm starting on mine in January, sounds like a similar build Please keep us updated Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Paul How's the build going? Any advice you can pass on? I've now got all my parts together, head ported and gas flowed, new cam, cryogenic treated and balanced steel billet crank and rods, ligtened flywheel, new 89mm pistons being balanced, extractors ceramic coated, aluminium radiator, upgraded water pump, facet electronic fuel pump Can't wait to get started on it late January Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Having done very very similar mods in restoring TR 2100, (plus webers) I can give you a bit of a warning. When I picked up my car (from TR Enterprises) it was difficult to drive (and they had already put on 500 miles and re-torqued the head). With everything so tight, and far more power than normal, the engine was very very sensitive. No doubt a lot of that was down to the lightened flywheel ("finger" style - very light). Worry not - just be patient. I quickly got used to the characteristics, plus of course as the engine bedded in, it became easier and easier to drive. Well worth the wait. Now, it will poodle around town and come to life when instructed! Make sure the cooling system is working as it should. If you are producing 40-50% more power, you are also generating far more heat. My system gets up to the mid-point on the gauge very quickly, even in UK weather. Electric fan is essential. Even though it gets very hot in traffic, it doesn't lose any more water than normal (it's an early 4 with TR3 style header tank). I have NOT heard good reports of the "uprated" water pump from competition guys and others who have made similar modifications. Faster water flow does NOT lead to increased cooling. In fact, the very opposite. I considered fitting an aluminium radiator, but was told they don't cool any more than the standard copper type, probably slightly less. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 HimPaul Good progress and looking good. You're on target in comparison to mine. Took around 15 years! Regards Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Great advice thanks Alan, I'll be patient with the running in process which I've never done before. I sourced all my parts (including the water pump) from Ken Gillanders (British Frame and Engine in California) and have absolute faith in his years of experience and advice Part of the reason for the rebuild was due to blown ring on no. 4 cylinder which I believe was cooling (or lack of) related. Hence the desire to improve the radiator - proved significantly cheaper to buy a new aluminium one from Wizard Cooling in the states than having the original rebuilt here in Aus. Also going to make sure the water galleries are properly cleaned out, and will be re-fitting the electric fan Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Graze, The 4-cylinder engine is well known for clogging up around No. 4 cylinder. You won't find the rally boys over here using the "uprated" water pump so I stand by my comment. AlanR (Edit - to clarify - my comment on uprated water pumps relates to (claimed) increased flow modifications and does NOT relate to uprated bearings Edited January 11, 2015 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) It's worthwhile seeking out a water pump with uprated bearings and seals. I have one of TR4Tony's as used I believe on Beastie. Edited January 11, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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