Hande Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Can anyone help. I have recently reverted to original steel wheels on my TR4A. Two of the four hubs do not have long enough studs to accommodate the wheels nuts. Rimmer Bros supplied new wheel nuts. They are large cone nuts measuring approximately 19-20mm back to front. On two hubs the nuts thread through the entire stud length (nearside front and back), the other two only allow the wheel to tighten with about 6 or seven turns short of being fully threaded onto the studs. I guess this is about only 2/3 of the thread of the nut. There is no difference between drum and disc on my car as the problem is off-side front and back. Strange ! The hubs previously had minilites and barrel nuts with no problems. I have read another forum entry that described the studs as difficult to change. Are my wheels safely attached basically.? Any advice would be very gratefully received. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 On those with only 6 or 7 turns of the thread short of a full nut is the actual amount of thread used on the stud about the same as a dia and a half of the stud ? If not they've not got enough threaded area used and will need changing. The use of barrel nuts allows more threaded area to be used going down through the wheel than is available with normal cone nuts and that's probably why you say they had no problems, the same rule of thumb applies though regarding a dia and a half of thread to be in actual use. If you do a search on wheel studs in the forum you'll find this subject done to death with every possible variation covered including how to remove and refit longer studs and where to get them from. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Sounds just on the edge of acceptable. The nuts should engage by at least 6 complete turns before they tighten, but the first couple of threads on the stud may be chamfered and so weaker. If the nuts go on 8 full turns it ought to be OK. Personally though, I think I would change the studs anyway so they are all the same. http://gizmology.net/nutsbolts.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hande Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Thanks Rob and Mick, That's really helpful. I will do some measurements to check but agree that the studs need changing so they all match. Not a factor to take any risks on when driving along without the assurance that literally 'the wheels could fall off'. Another thing on the lovely list of jobs for my car. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Smith Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Mike, I have new old stock studs (so you know that the steel is the correct grade) for both front and rear wheels for your 4A if you are not fixed up by now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hande Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Hello Bob, No I don't have any yet and I'm very interested. I need a set for front and back one side. If you could let me know the cost hopefully we can do a deal. Many thanks. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Smith Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Mike, Sent you a PM; to read click on the envelope symbol on top RHS of this page. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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