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Hande

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  1. Yes to correct spark plugs, supplied by Rimmer Bros but it wouldn't hurt fitting new ones. Thanks also I will try premium fuel. Mike.
  2. Thanks for your comments. Honestly, my very old and very basic strobe light (no angle setting), relies on my measurement / mark approximately 8mm before the pointer against the timing mark on the pulley. Any advice on that would be gratefully received. This gives me smooth running, no jerking at high torque at low revs and the car pulls well. I have an electronic fan and it cuts in on a short run, cool evening and that is when the run on is worse. I have had a pretty recent engine rebuild so I don't think coking is an issue but I'm a pretty inexperienced home mechanic / enthusia
  3. Oh my! Any tips please I have adjusted and re adjusted timing and mixture. Still my TR4 is running on / getting hot. I use a strobe light and have tried leaning the carburettors but nothing helps. I'm running an unleaded head, SU carburettors and Accuspark eletronic conversion in the distributor. Can anyone help please? Mike
  4. Thank you Roger, helpful as always. Mike
  5. I have bought polybushes for the swing arm on the back of my TR4A IRS. They are asymmetrical with a chamfered end and a 'square' end. I can't find any information on whether it matters what orientation these are installed in. So obviously the chamfered end is inserted end-first for ease of installation, but do they go opposingly? If so with the 'squared' ends outermost or innermost. Or does it not matter? Can anyone help please. Thanks Mike.
  6. I disconnected the upper steering joint as suggested and the column was still sticking so I removed the inner column and (as Pete suggested) polished the column at the points that run inside the nylon bushes (they were slightly corroded). Once reassembled the problem is cured and the column is beautifully smooth and easy. The forum once again has been invaluable. Thanks for everyone's help. Many thanks. Mike.
  7. Thanks for the suggestions, I will try disconnecting things as suggested to narrow down the culprit and will let you know what I discover. Happy mechanics. Hande.
  8. Hi everyone, I wonder if anyone can help. My TR4A have a problem with a sticky steering column. It gives a 'notchy' movement when turning with a feeling that something is too tight. Most noticeable when cruising, this ruins the driving experience as tiny adjustments to remain in a straight line requires force and there is an audible 'release' as the column concedes to rotate. At first I suspected the horn bush and pencil but these are smooth and the stickiness appears to be coming from the firewall area. I have tried moving the inner column fore and aft and shifted the clamp which is forward
  9. Hello Bob, No I don't have any yet and I'm very interested. I need a set for front and back one side. If you could let me know the cost hopefully we can do a deal. Many thanks. Mike
  10. Thanks Rob and Mick, That's really helpful. I will do some measurements to check but agree that the studs need changing so they all match. Not a factor to take any risks on when driving along without the assurance that literally 'the wheels could fall off'. Another thing on the lovely list of jobs for my car. Mike
  11. Can anyone help. I have recently reverted to original steel wheels on my TR4A. Two of the four hubs do not have long enough studs to accommodate the wheels nuts. Rimmer Bros supplied new wheel nuts. They are large cone nuts measuring approximately 19-20mm back to front. On two hubs the nuts thread through the entire stud length (nearside front and back), the other two only allow the wheel to tighten with about 6 or seven turns short of being fully threaded onto the studs. I guess this is about only 2/3 of the thread of the nut. There is no difference between drum and disc on my car as the pr
  12. Amazing and informative responses, thanks. My stalk is chrome but there is no indication that it has been bent. The black plastic sleeved end on the other hand is split and stays on only by reverse osmosis. I actually like the logic that up equates to going up a gear. I have got used to it and it's a quirk and probably not something that I am in a rush to rectify (except for the black sleeve). Note to self.........Remember when driving my best friends immaculate pride and joy, not to mess up and 'anti-switch' in 1st and 2nd !!!!!
  13. Can anyone help me. The Overdrive switch on my Tr4A appears to work upside down, operating upwards to engage when all other cars I have 'surveyed' it's (logically) down. It does not appear possible for the switch itself to be inverted as it is dog-legged. The switch operates a relay, which in turn operates the overdrive solenoid. I have checked the wiring diagram and cannot see that inverting the switch wires can make any difference. Does anyone know what is needed to remedy. Thanks, Hande
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