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Late tr4 suspension rebuild


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Hello all

 

Looking into rebuilding suspension as next job and considering whether it's worth upgrading the suspension at same time. Looking at Revington integrated kits. Does anyone have any direct experience of these? Hoping to do a bit of historic rallying eventually (ie events like Le Jog). Don't want rock hard ride and thus initially considering the kit with slightly updated rear springs and rear roll bar but not sure if this will be a problem for historic rally regs.

 

Also, may strengthen chassis as well for future plans (looking at revington half rally kit). No welding experience so may need to farm that out. Thoughts on how best to combine chassis strengthening and suspension rebuild (ie order of work) would also be welcome.

 

Spoken to Mr Revington and he was v helpful but, not surprisingly, very keen on his own kits(!) looking for some third party endorsement.

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

Bob

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Hi Bob,

if you are doing historic rallies you may not be allowed to have fancy suspension.

The strut in coil (coil over strut) is very good in theory but you may not like it when installed.

The original armstrong dampers are very good when working. Get some new ones.

 

Roger

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Thanks Roger. The revington kit keeps the lever arms, it's more the rear roll bar that could cause problems I think. Not sure how bothered people are unless you are in with a chance of winning something! (or so I have been told by someone was has competed a bit) but looking for direct TR advice.

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I bought the Revington integrated suspension kit for my TR3A, It was very good quality, and expensive. I believed I was improving the suspension.

 

The car was such a disappointment to drive, It was solid, I removed both the roll bars, and the uprated springs, and it was then a better driving car on the road, Standard Triumph got it right first time.

 

Just one opinion though.

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I took my car from a standard setup and gradually upgraded to the Revington Road/Rally spec including the rear anti-roll bar. That was about ten years ago. I would say it's the best thing you will do to your car. It completely transforms the driving experience and if you intend to drive enthusiastically
I'd say it was essential. The car feels much more stable in a straight line, it will turn in quicker with a touch of oversteer and allows you to have much more control positioning the car.

 

It is quite a hard ride (but not very different to standard). I've never had any problems with ground clearance.

 

I did upgraded the front and rear shocks after a while (I went with Spax race at the front and Armstrong twin piston lever arms at the back with rose links) which made a big difference in stability and confidence on the track.

 

I also found fitting a quick rack was also a big improvement and fitted in nicely with the Revington kit.

 

I've never had any problems with scrutineers!

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Thanks Valvebounce that's now one vote each. Damping is an issue at the moment after being driven hard for a few miles. Aren't the twin valves hard to get hold of and expensive? When talking scrutineers is the race or rally? Aren't the latter more fussy re non period mods or is that just at the top level?

 

Any other recommendations for suspension suppliers- revington or others?

 

Bob

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Thanks Valvebounce that's now one vote each. Damping is an issue at the moment after being driven hard for a few miles. Aren't the twin valves hard to get hold of and expensive? When talking scrutineers is the race or rally? Aren't the latter more fussy re non period mods or is that just at the top level?

 

Any other recommendations for suspension suppliers- revington or others?

 

Bob

Talk to Darryl at Racetorations or Steve Hall at TR Enterprises. You do need to know exactly what you are going to do with the car so you can get a setup that suits you not what they want to sell you. ;)

Stuart.

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Before making up you mind as the modifications you want it is a good idea to get a really decent wheel alignment done using Hunter Hawkeye equipment. This of course assumes that the suspension itself is in good condition.

 

It is amazing what this will do for a TR's handling, especially for an IRS arrangement. Once done you may prefer to stay with the standard springs and only adopt uprated shock absorbers to achieve a firmer ride.

 

Clearly any strengthening to the chassis is a good idea for rallying.

 

Tim

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Well having read various suppliers websites, it all gets more confusing. From what I can tell std rear springs appear to be 128lb/in. Revington uprated springs say they are only "slightly" uprated and quote either 160 (using rear anti roll bar) or 185 with no rear roll bar. Thus I'm assuming that's 25% or 45% uprated. Is the rear anti roll bar there to counteract the softer spring rate?

 

Racetorations say their springs are uprated by 20% (presumably 154lb/in) but no rear roll bar. However seems that racetorations springs lower the ride height by 1". Revington states ride height of between 145mm and 155mm- not sure if that's lowered or not.

 

Further to Stuart's point, problem is, if I speak to either Darryl or Neil, they'll both convince me that theirs is the best solution! Unless you have direct experience of the ride quality and handling it's hard to decide.

 

The idea is that if anything is going to be changed it makes sense to do it when rebuilding but beginning to think its best to leave well alone.......

 

However thanks for all input so far.

 

Bob

Edited by Bob Horner
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Hi Bob,

 

For what it is worth, I have Neil R's red stripe coils at the front with Avo shocks, and the 160 leaf springs at the back ( they have an extra leaf) with uprated lever arms. No a/r bars and very happy with the ride and handling.

 

Mike

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