Rattle rattle.....

[Bob Horner]

Well, as noted on another thread, I have a rattle at idle that disappears when the revs rise slightly. I changed the distributor drive shaft and the oil pump insides (spade and oil pump spindle were quite worn). Thats done wonders for oil pressure and at the same time I've cured various oil leaks but still got the rattle.

 

Timing chain cover and tensioner changed when I did a thin belt conversion a few weeks ago and it does seem to emirate from the distributor side and, if my screwdriver doesn't lie, from the distributed itself.

 

Father in law, ( who worked in these cars when new before taking up a job with Shell at their development site at Thornton) reckons it could simply be weights or something else rattling in the distributor. Anyone think that's likely or other suggestions?

 

Bob

[RogerH]

Hi Bob,

highly possible. The bob weights often seize up but as they are mechanical could quite easily go the other way and wear out.

 

If you suspect the dizzy why not buy an Accuspark dizzy to keep you going (nice and cheap) and send yours to Martin Jay (the Dizzy Doc) for a complete overhaul.

 

Fitting the Accuspark dizzy may also confrm the rattle.

 

Roger

[Dick]

I would remove the fan belt and then test.....that will rule out, waterpump, loose pullies, generator etc.

[Bob Horner]

Hi Roger

 

Accuspark seems a good idea. Not 100% clear from website but is there a tacho drive on these? Also roughly what does the good Doctor charge (coy on website)?

 

Regards

 

Bob

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Bob,

 

Martin (Dissie Doc) does tend to be a tad reticent on rebuild prices - simply because old dissies vary greatly in condition, and also because ostensibly similar dissies can incur rather different rebuild costs depending on rarity of certain components. He does try to be reasonable in terms of individual cost, as opposed to having a standard charge for every darn thing.

 

TR dissies are typically £200-250 I think. Not cheap, but on the other hand you're paying for precision engineering and attention to detail, which costs time and money. As I see it, in this instance you are getting what you pay for.

 

I should add that Martin and I are old pals, so my thoughts are not entirely unbiased. Against that, I do have some appreciation of what goes into his distributor rebuilding, and I can be pretty damn cynical when it comes to specialists, even if they are old pals.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

[RogerH]

Hi Bob,

the tacho drive comes off the pedestal that the dizzy sits in - so no, the dizzy itself has no tacho drive.

 

Regarding prices - as Alec states.

Considerably more than a new Accuspark dizzy but the advance weights and springs are matched to your engine set up.

Martin will want to know such things as your cam (standard, road race etc) carbs, engine size etc.

 

Has any of your local club members got a spare dizzy to try in order to test for the rattle rather than buy another.

 

Roger

[peejay4A]

The tacho drive is incorporated with the distributor on 6 cylinder engines, separate and part of the pedestal on the 4 cylinder engines.

 

Edit: synchronised typing from Roger and me.

Edited December 2, 2013 by peejay4A

[RogerH]

Hi Pete,

a new olympic sport - 'synchronised posting'. keep smiling and mind the nose peg.

 

Roger

[Bob Horner]

Thanks guys. Given that I've just taken it apart, one would have thought I'd have spotted the drive issue. In my defence, I quickly looked at the workshop manual this morning and realised the stupidity of my question. Too late..."the moving hand once having writ moves on. Nor all thy piety nor wit can lure it back to cancel half a line".....as we say in Yorkshire

 

Regards

 

Bob

[colin addison]

Having had my TR2 dizzy rebuilt recently by Martin I would concur with Alec about prices, but when it arrived back it does look excellent, and all the "bits" inside have been replaced. I sent it with the micro adjustment inoperable, this now works. I think a new one is about the same price BUT you never know where these are sourced from and I would actually prefer the original to be repaired/serviced etc (in UK!!). I even got a performance graph when it was returned.

cheers

Colin

[jothecat]

Martin does a great job, and I am biased because we both worked for the same firm at the same time (different locations though).

Unfortunately he couldn't repair my distributor because it was seized, despite a blow torch heating it up.

Gentleman that he is I wasn't charged a bean despite his efforts.

 

Thoroughly recommended

 

Jo.

[ChrisR-4A]

Hi Bob, Moss do a pack of stronger springs for the A/R weights for under a tenner, to suit a standard engine try using the two weakest in the pack.

They should fit so there is no freeplay on the weights and no rattle, or you could just remove and stretch your existing springs enough to remove any play to see if it cures the rattle.

Rule of thumb is weak springs cause pinking, so increase tension so that there is no pinking with timing at standard setting.

If you dont find the cause then get under the car and check its not coming from the clutch, loose springs.