Andrew Smith Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 It never rains, but.....!!! TRK has a rusted-in/seized piston in my n/s brake caliper (plug retainer side) and it won't budge, even after copious amounts of WD40 and tentative use of a hammer and wood; so far I've resisted using heat! Although the manual say don't touch it, has anyone removed the plug retainer? I'm thinking of doing this to "encourage" it out from the rear - so to speak! Any further suggestions welcomed. Thanks Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Kitchener Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Andrew, Try clamping the piston that is not seized,then push hard on the brake pedal...if possible put the caliper in a plastic bag first!!! Cheers Mike http://mikek.9online.fr/index.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Hi Andrew. I converted my front brakes to discs some time back. None of the pistons would come out, or even rotate. I found that by removing the nozzle end from a lever-type grease gun the flexible pipe could be screwed (gently, dont damage the thread) into the brake pipe hole on the caliper. A few pumps of high pressure grease got one piston moving. Then clamp in the one thats moving and pump out the second. I was suprised just how easily they came out. Good luck. Les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted February 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Mike Sorry, should have stated the caliper is off the car. Les I have one piston already out. Was there not a problem with grease residue using this method? Thanks Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Kitchener Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Andrew, Just reconnect the flexible pipe,bleed and then push. Mike http://mikek.9online.fr/index.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted February 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Andrew,Just reconnect the flexible pipe,bleed and then push. Mike http://mikek.9online.fr/index.htm Doh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Re greasegun method It was easy to clean out any grease left in the caliper with meths followed by a blow through with an airline. You will probably clean out the piston bores with fine emery paper so it will need a good clean anyway. Mine were quite rusty but new pistons and seals have been very successful. No trace of fluid leaks since fitted 3 years ago. Les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted February 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Les When I eventually get this one out, I intend to replace them all with stainless steel, as the leading edges have been severely damaged in the car's past. Regards Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gnotte Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Andrew, I got the piston from the galiper by applying air pressure from a compressor to the input hole and the piston pop-up quite easily, just be prepared to collect it on exit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Using the greasegun method pushes the seized pistons out in a controlled manner. The piston will only move out in relation to the amount of grease pumped in. Using compressed air alone means that when something does move, a lot of stored energy must be released with a bang, and can do some damage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted February 7, 2005 Report Share Posted February 7, 2005 I'm afraid if the brake system can't free the cylinder, no air-compressor will as the brake system can generate about 10 times the pressure the best compressor can. Jean p.s. WD40 and time are often the keywords Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted February 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2005 Grease-gun connector wouldn't fit, so got the bugger out by re-connecting to system and plenty of WD40, what a mess; then 1,500 grit and elbow grease. The stainless steel pistons, new sealing rings and dust covers are all now doing their job and I'm able to brake in a straight line. Thanks all Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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