Rod1883 Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi, I have a newly refurbished TR4 4synchro o/d box fitted in my 2, replacing the previous non o/d 3 synchro original box. I am using the old box gear lever, which is the one piece type. I am having great difficulty selecting second gear - all others work fine, it's just second. I've removed the gear lever to check it, re-clean and lubricate and, on previous advice received, to check the spring/plunger was correctly in place and not the cause of the issue. My lever, however, does not have a spring and plunger, just a solid small end that fits into the selectors. In all other respects it looks right, and is as far as I know the original and is as fitted when I bought the car in 1980. So, my questions are: Will a one piece 3 synchro lever work ok in a 4 synchro box? My car (TS4869) should have a one piece lever, but with a spring and plunger in the selector end. My lever doesn't have this - is it possible it isn't a TR lever, how would I check? Thanks Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LGFromage Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 My reading of the tea leaves is that the 3 synchro lever will work in the 4 synchro box. Based on your and other comments on the forum regarding the difficulty of selecting second gear I suggest there may be a problem with newly refurbished TR4 gearboxes. If the re builder selects new parts from the Moss TR4 catalogue he will miss out on details of the sized washer in between first and second gear. The selection of the correct washer is essential in order to minimise any endfloat. Excessive endfloat will impair the gear change. The solution is to select the appropriate sized washer from the Moss TR6 catalogue. Clearly if this is the problem it would be a pain to fix so let's hope there is a more straightforward solution to your gear change difficulties. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi Tim, Thanks for your response. The box was checked and refurbished by possibly the best TR gearbox guy there is, so I would not expect the washer/end float to be the issue. I'm hoping it's just initial tightness/stiffness and it will ease, but I am just a little concerned that I don't have the right gearlever as it doesn't have the spring/plunger arrangement. It might be a silly thought, but I'm wondering if the selector end of the lever isn't right and that might be the problem - although selecting every other gear is fine? Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LGFromage Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi Rod, That is really good news. I hope the box sorts itself out. As for the gear lever I fully support your efforts to make use of the original one as years ago when I was looking at sports cars as a very young man I fancied the TR over the Austin Healey because of the short lever. Weird I know but never regretted it! The only downside is that it may rattle a bit more than that of the TR4 as it does not have the spring and plunger, but then who cares. Good Luck, Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 My own car has a 4 synchro box with a one piece TR3 gear stick and all works fine. I am in the throws of shortening and re threading a TR 5 gear stick for use as I am finding the space between top of TR3 stick and dash is a bit tight. The bent TR5 stick moves the knob back towards me a bit and from under the dash. We did this also on my brothers TR2 with a Stag stick incorporating overdrive switch. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 The spring and plunger is only to reduce any stick rattle and has no effect on gear selection. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 My own car has a 4 synchro box with a one piece TR3 gear stick and all works fine. I am in the throws of shortening and re threading a TR 5 gear stick for use as I am finding the space between top of TR3 stick and dash is a bit tight. The bent TR5 stick moves the knob back towards me a bit and from under the dash. We did this also on my brothers TR2 with a Stag stick incorporating overdrive switch. Cheers Peter W I had the same problem with the space between the dash and the knob of the lever. I bent the lever backwards ( angled) like the lever on a TR4. Problem solved and the knob is closer to the hand that is normally on the steering wheel. With a LHD car like mine, that's the right hand off course. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 A little more investigation, on the original 3 synchro box that came out of the car, and I find it's not a TR box. It is the one fitted when I bought the car many many years ago and so I assumed it was, but it isn't. The number stamped on the casing is ALnnnn, and this stamping is in the position more associated with the later 4 synchro boxes, ie on the bell housing below the clutch cross shaft drilling. So, my "original" gear lever probably isn't TR and that would explain the lack of spring and plunger at the selector end, and possibly the difficulties I'm having selecting secoind gear. It also has a small hole drilled through the lever near the base. Does anyone know what an 'AL' gearbox would have been from? Also, does anyone have a decent one piece early TR gearlever for sale? Regards Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 (edited) Sorry to bring this back up to the top, but I thought some of you might find the outcome of my difficulties helpful. If you recall, I was having great difficulty selecting second gear on my newly refurbished and fitted TR4 o/d gearbox in my TR2, and wondered if it ws anything to do with the gear lever from my old TR2 non o/d box. After trying different gear levers and seeing marginal if any improvement, and this improvement not diminishing when refitting my original lever, I decided to check out the second gear o/d switch. Upon removing this, second gear selection is now fine. Therefore I believe that the switch was protruding too far into the selector area and preventing easy gear selection. Hopefully no damage has been done whilst it ws 'in the way'. Now I have the problem of trying to fit a plug or the switch, with more washers, in the switch hole to prevent escape of lubricant. It's proving a bit dificult through the access hole in the tunnel so far, and I don't really want to remove the tunnel as it gets complicated, with Revington Bucket seats fitted. Rod Edited May 2, 2013 by Rod1883 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 Rod, O/D lockout switches had to be shimmed to the correct height, so adding another shim washer p/n 502146 is the likely solution. 4 synchro boxes were notchier than the earlier 3 synchro's, so a longer cranked gear lever compensated by offering more leverage. Viv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.