Overdrive wiring advice.

[Dave Burgess]

I'm rebuilding a late US 6. and have got to the point of installing the loom. Alls well with the exception of the O/D. Auto sparks supplied the new loom with the extra O/D bits for G/Box and body. This could be connected as shown on 'autowires' drawing, ie without a relay. Or as I would prefer (I think)and as shown on the standard drawing with a relay with some mods and additions to what auto sparks have supplied.

Question is:- will the switch stand the load required by the solenoid? And Is it normal to wire up as show on autowires drawing without a relay.

For info, rightly or wrongly I've stuck with the late US harness complete with Relay for starter and horn. Plan A above would require me to add a third relay to the already congested area on the inner wing, not an insurmountable problem I know.

 

Many Thanks in anticipation

 

Regards to all

 

Dave B

[Guest ntc]

Hi Dave

 

Imho no, you must put a relay in there,the switch will not take it let alone the wire up the column

[Nick Jones]

The theory is that you must have a relay for the A-type overdrive but not strictly necessary for J-type as the J-type solenoid takes much less current.

 

Nick

 

Edit: Not sure whether the later 6s had J-type or whether they are all A-type......?

Edited December 6, 2011 by Nick Jones

[Guest ntc]

The theory is that you must have a relay for the A-type overdrive but not strictly necessary for J-type as the J-type solenoid takes much less current.

 

Nick

 

Edit: Not sure whether the later 6s had J-type or whether they are all A-type......?

 

 

They had J type, however Auto wire will not be the same size

[zogabu]

Hi,

 

My 73 TR6 (CR2432 O) has a J type OD without relay. from origin and no problem. Problem may come from the loom. It seems that there are several possible switches arrangement on the gear box. On mine the same switch is operated in 3rd and 4th to allow OD operation. As there are unused connections in the loom, I suspect that a second switch is used in another configuration. The easiest way is to check with an ohmeter continuity from the switch to the solenoid to be sure OD is allowed for 3rd and 4th and only for these gears. Allowing the OD to be actuated in 1st may lead to serious damages.

 

Regards.

 

guy

[Dave Burgess]

Many Thanks folks.

Sounds like my car was like Guys, originally without relay (late 74). But as the G/box, o/d and half the original loom were not with the car when I got it from the states and the engine was rolling around on a pallet in the container I haven't got much to go on.

Original or not I take Neils view that anything with any amount of load should have a relay. So the decision has been taken to bastardise that bit of Auto Sparks loom and add a relay.

Guy. sounds like my J type is the same as yours with only two switches, one for reverse the other for 3rd & 4th. As it's only on the 3rd/4th selector rail the switch should only be made when the gear lever is on that rail but I take your point and will check the continuity or rather lack of it when in first and second.

Many Thanks Neil, Nick and Guy.

ATB

Dave B

[rpurchon]

Many Thanks folks.

Sounds like my car was like Guys, originally without relay (late 74). But as the G/box, o/d and half the original loom were not with the car when I got it from the states and the engine was rolling around on a pallet in the container I haven't got much to go on.

Original or not I take Neils view that anything with any amount of load should have a relay. So the decision has been taken to bastardise that bit of Auto Sparks loom and add a relay.

Guy. sounds like my J type is the same as yours with only two switches, one for reverse the other for 3rd & 4th. As it's only on the 3rd/4th selector rail the switch should only be made when the gear lever is on that rail but I take your point and will check the continuity or rather lack of it when in first and second.

Many Thanks Neil, Nick and Guy.

ATB

Dave B

 

j type doesnt need a relay.

the solenoid is complety different from a Atype solenoid.

which has to shift a long metal rod. and lift a short lever to compress a spring.

dont bother with the relay. less to to go wrong.triumph didnt fit one for a reason.

richard

[Dave Burgess]

Thanks Richard. That sounds quite positive, What is the load through the switch though on a J type. Was the switch originally designed to carry it or the load of the relayed design of the A type. Also because the G/Box and O/D wiring including the switch had been removed I've had to purchase new .The repro switch looks very flimsy.

 

Regards

 

Dave B

[stuart]

Beware of the repro switches as the lever does have a habit of coming off in your hand as there isnt enough strength in it at the pivot point as Laurence (D1070) will attest to The draw on the switch on a "J" type was deemed to be OK by Triumph hence the deletion of the relay on the change from the "A" type but as a "belt and braces" approach I always retro fit genuine Lucas 6RA relays to them. Especially necessary if fitting a logic box as well. The "A" type wiring with the relay meant there was only a minimal switching current going through the stalk switch.

Stuart.

Edited December 8, 2011 by stuart

[D1070]

Yes,as Stuart says, the repro o/d wand ,as fitted to my 6,is a flimsy bit of kit,-i replaced

with the logic facility which incorperates a button in the alluminium gear knob. Thus far, its

been fine.I have the same arrangement in the 5 which has been good for nearly five years and 30k+ miles

cheers,

Laurence

[rpurchon]

Thanks Richard. That sounds quite positive, What is the load through the switch though on a J type. Was the switch originally designed to carry it or the load of the relayed design of the A type. Also because the G/Box and O/D wiring including the switch had been removed I've had to purchase new .The repro switch looks very flimsy.

 

Regards

 

Dave B

 

the a type solenoid has 2 coils,a large one to bang the lever into postion.[why it needs a seperate relay]then a small one takes over to hold in place.

i dont know what the holding current is for a j type.but it wont be much i guess less than 1 amp.

fit some relays on your headlights though.

richard

[Dave Burgess]

Thanks all,

 

6RA being fitted, I've built in a relay for everything else in the loom, but when I ordered the loom from Auto sparks I didn't realise that it didn't allow for a relay on the O/D. So following all your collective advice I'm adding it retrospectively, might even go for the logic control if the switch is so much better.

 

Thanks again

 

Dave B

[Guest ntc]

Thanks all,

 

6RA being fitted, I've built in a relay for everything else in the loom, but when I ordered the loom from Auto sparks I didn't realise that it didn't allow for a relay on the O/D. So following all your collective advice I'm adding it retrospectively, might even go for the logic control if the switch is so much better.

 

Thanks again

 

Dave B

 

 

Dave the momentary switch is the hard bit to find , I maybe able to help with that? as for the logic control the dog's bo!!!! from Revington

Edited December 8, 2011 by ntc

[Dave Burgess]

Neil

I thought that it was included with the Revington one, must admit not looked for ages.

 

Dave B

[stuart]

The O/drive loom with its associated relay is always a seperate item from the main loom anyway though Autosparks do keep them. Revingtons do a momentary converted original type switch though it is as Shezbo would say "A tad on the expensive side!"

The logic box is a very fine bit of kit.

Stuart.

Edited December 8, 2011 by stuart

[Dave Burgess]

Stuart

Had a look on Revingtons site last night, must say I fell on the floor at the price of the switch.

 

Neil have you got one and will it suit a LHD car?

 

Dave B

[stuart]

Stuart

Had a look on Revingtons site last night, must say I fell on the floor at the price of the switch.

 

Dave B

 

When you consider its just an ordinary switch with the latch removed then yes.

Stuart.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

This logic box.....

Does it look like a slightly oversized aluminium cased 6RA relay? If so, is it the headlamp latching relay made by Hella as fitted to Volvo 240 or at the overpriced end of the market - Jaguar. http://seekpart24.co...nt-4rd001836057 - at 67Euros.

 

I think it may be a latching changeover relay http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-728-02-durite-12v-25a-latching-changeover-relay-with-resistor-2147-p.asp at 25 quid but in a plastic case not aluminium.

 

 

 

 

To make the headlamp dip/main work you pulled the headlamp flasher switch (momentary contact) when the headlamps were on to light the mains, pull again it dropped back to dips. Headlamps always returned to dip beam after lamps were turned off.

 

Cheers

Peter W

Edited December 12, 2011 by BlueTR3A-5EKT