2long Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 I need to have a complete engine rebuild by a local shop, and I would appreciate any suggestions to give to the mechanic that will address any oddities or special concerns for the early engines (my car is TS 1911 LO, original engine never rebuilt before, 55,000 miles). I know that the early engines did not use certain camshaft bearings, for example, but if there are any other tips I can give to the mechanic now would be the time. Any general tips would also be appreciated. I know that is a big topic, and I have the Roger Williams restoration book and the factory book, but I thought asking for your collective help would be worthwhile). Thank you for any help. Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 Dan, I'm a novice with the wet liner engines so I'm not going to be a lot of help but hopefully the shop you use will be familiar with the quirks of the wet liner engines like fo8 seals, liner height, liner clamping during assembly etc. The only thing I can think of is to consider if you want to do more with the rear crank oil seal than the standard scroll seal as there are a couple of options that help make this interface a little less prone to leaking. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bazzano Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Dan, It's not that the early engines did not use certain cam bearings, rather that they used none at all for the last three cam journals . Your local machine shop can line bore out the block to accept those new bearings, however. I rebuilt my TR2 engine last spring and am using the old fashion scroll seal for the crank rear. I was a bit hesitant to go with the new style seals after reading all the problems mentioned on the "British Car Forum". You might "search" that site for some new seal info. The few drips under the car are minimal and for me, acceptable. John B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Yes, and I await Guys outcome with the Mark seal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Yes, and I await Guys outcome with the Mark seal me too ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted December 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Is there any consensus as to whether the scroll seal on the crank should be ground off? If I do, which supplier should I use for the modified seal? Thanks for the help! Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Is there any consensus as to whether the scroll seal on the crank should be ground off? If I do, which supplier should I use for the modified seal? Thanks for the help! Dan That is one option Dan but there is an alternative seal from Christan Marx that leaves the crank and the scroll seal intact and just requires the machining of the aluminum oil seal assembly to take a supplemental Viton oil seal, a sort of belt and braces approach that is less destructive. That is what Guy and I are planning to use. Here in the US Joe Alexander and downstream, TRF, sell the complete kit (Part number HP600 - http://trf.zeni.net/TR2-TR3Handbook/index.php?menu=&page=7) just requiring your oil seal assembly in exchange as a core for another customer. http://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf There are plenty of people that suggest leaving the scroll seal alone but Christian's solution looked like a good compromise to me and easily reversible. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Stan i thought that Guy was going to use the Marx seal,as i too am on the list of those awaiting Guy's findings with this product.By Neil's comments so did he so Guy what's the latest? Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 Stan i thought that Guy was going to use the Marx seal,as i too am on the list of those awaiting Guy's findings with this product.By Neil's comments so did he so Guy what's the latest? Roy Roy, looks like Guy has made good progress. See his thread that was just updated: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=30330 Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 Dan, a couple of things - When the engine is apart, check the front plate for a groove scoured by the chain tensioner. This needs to be filled with weld and ground down smooth. Make sure the engine is thoroughly hot tank cleaned before assembly, especially where the F8 gaskets seat in the block and the oil galleries. Lately I've heard of two newly rebuilt engines that suffered early damage because they weren't cleaned properly. Clean the inside of the rocker shaft as it collects gunk which can block oil to the end rockers. Suggest crack testing the crankshaft for any sign of a problem, as they can fail at the rear journal. When assembling the engine, use gasket cement on any bolts where the thread penetrates the block to stop oil leaks. eg. the generator mount bracket (which should have wired bolts for security). Check the internal thread on the generator front mount pedestal. Sometimes it gets partly stripped and the generator front mount bolt is only hanging on by a couple of threads. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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