Hakhonning Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 My TR6 from 76 is not level, although I have changed both rear springs. The rear left wheel has much more negative camber than the other. It has left steering wheel. Is there a fix for this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 (edited) My TR6 from 76 is not level, although I have changed both rear springs. The rear left wheel has much more negative camber than the other. It has left steering wheel. Is there a fix for this? does it look like this after you have jacked the car up without moving it. or after driving it, [without reversing]. richard Edited September 20, 2011 by rpurchon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hakhonning Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 it's after driving, even if I push it back and forth a bit. I'll post a picture of it in the morning Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Has it always been that way or is this a recent development? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 I had this on a previous TR. I had to do a trailing arm bracket adjustment, ie use a differing bracket. On Buckeye Triumph he specifies what combinations make what difference to the wheel angle. You need to measure the current camber, look up in his table what will make it the same as the other side and adjust the trailing arm brackets accordingly. Although its a bit of a fiddle once I sorted the angle difference it was straightforward and more importantly worked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Assuming your chassis is OK - the trailing arm mounting sections rust rather easily and may have been badly repaired - the camber should be the same. Are the spring buffer pads in place both sides? As Robin says, you can change the camber by using the notch brackets, but these (made by Richard Good) are much easier. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=8860&SortOrder=1 Are both trailing arms of the same age? The casting date will be found scratched onto the arm. If you imagine the trailing arm is a bird bath, the date is where you'd put the water. Williams mentions in his 'Improving' book that there was a change in trailing arm configuration at CP52867/CC61570 which coincided with the change from 1 & 2 notch brackets to 3 & 1 notch brackets. The change was made to reduce the 'squat' under acceleration. This means that if you buy a replacement trailing arm it's important to get one compatible with your car or else a pair, otherwise you will never get the camber correct. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidw Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 This happened to me after changing the springs and it was because the spring collars were too thin. The driver's had jumped out of place on a very bumpy road and jammed just inside the top of the spring where I couldn't see it until I removed the spring. You might simply need thicker collars to keep the spring in place on rough surfaces. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 I had this on a previous TR. I had to do a trailing arm bracket adjustment, ie use a differing bracket. On Buckeye Triumph he specifies what combinations make what difference to the wheel angle. You need to measure the current camber, look up in his table what will make it the same as the other side and adjust the trailing arm brackets accordingly. Although its a bit of a fiddle once I sorted the angle difference it was straightforward and more importantly worked. The Buckeye is a very good detailed download on what to do,easy to follow.As Robin said and it works. ROY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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