tr6tuga Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Just come for a ride and fuel pump (the Lucas) overheated, and my wife too, and after a couple of minutes on the side of A28, restarted and of we whent.... So I have a very serious motive to Clean the fuel lines, starting with the steel tank, filter, PRV, pump and so on. Best practice to clean the tank ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bluetr6reborn Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 hi i had many problems like this i took fuel tank out cleaned tank out with soda crystals flushed with petrol, wire brush on a stick scrubbed (awkward) then treated the tank with a tank sealer . cleaned filters pipes with some wire down the pipes, compressed air line used to clear any obstructions, prv, filter before prv ,filter before metering unit.fit new tank sender. good luck john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob72CP Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Hi, I have heard of people using clean gravel or a length of lightweight chain in the tank and then shaking it around to remove any existing rust, band then thoroughly flushing out the tank to remove debris. Never tried it myself but i see no reason why this should not be very effective. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beemer Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 ...once all hoses, filters and tank are cleaned you could move (or get a new pump) and mount it in the wheel arch - a little "auto cooling" as you go and you wont hear it when you turn on the ignition Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 (edited) Just come for a ride and fuel pump (the Lucas) overheated, and my wife too, and after a couple of minutes on the side of A28, restarted and of we whent.... So I have a very serious motive to Clean the fuel lines, starting with the steel tank, filter, PRV, pump and so on. Best practice to clean the tank ? I'm not sure cleaning out all the fuel lines and the tank will resolve the overheating Lucas pump? An overheating Lucas fuel pump is a common problem when the ambient temperature hits upwards of 20 Deg C, and sometimes lower if worked hard. There are two usual courses of action: fit a cooling coil which wraps round the Lucas pump (available from Moss etc) and works to an extent (cheap option), or fit a Bosch conversion. I would try the cheap option first and see how it goes. Cheers Andrew Edited April 22, 2011 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Thank you all for advice. My pump (in the car) has a cooler spring already fited, and to my knowledge the failure was more due to hard work than to external heat ( a mere 27º ), and folowing a irregular ride (burst of power !). It had hapened already and after filter cleanning it ride effortlessy. Any advice on sealer ? and the right filter, original or aftermarket ? I checked fuel pressure after PRV and is ok when filter clean Replacing the fuel pump is not a option, yet !, and kind like the buzz, it reminds me Nº 4 from Thunderbirds ! I'll drive upcountry this easter (alone) see how it works... Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Sealant must be resistant to ethanol in fuel- in UK 5% now and perhaps 10% in future. Personally I would not use a sealant but wait for FBHVC to come up wuth corrosion inhibitor that they have shown to work. Ethanol in fuel will shift rust and muck accumulated over decades. I guess your old filetr looks rusty from fine talc-like rust particles. So good idea is to use a big fuel filter, and carry a spare and a hose clamp. Modern filters are tiny compared with the original Tecalemit. They presumably will flow the appropriate fuel when clean but the question is how quckly does fuel flow fall as they clog with rust particles? If you are inclined to experiment (with tank out of car) soak the tank in a litre of two of neat meths (methylated spirits), say 24 hours on each side. This should acclerate alcohol's effects at shifting muck: let us know what the washings look like! re-soak until clear of rust. Then fill up with petrol- the residual film of meths will burn fine. If replacing fuel hoses any effects of ethanol in fuel can be avoided by using ptfe-lined hoses. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian richardson Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Hi. I had similar problem with my 4A. A telecopic magnet fishing in the tank would bring out loads of rust particles that were sloshing around and blocking the fuel line when cornering. I took the tank out on a hot sunny weekend and used a handful of pebbles to roll around inside to clean up the inside. Make sure that you count them. Hosed the tank out thoroughly and left in the sun with a hot air gun blowing in to dry it out. I then used Frost's POR15 Car tank repair kit to reline the inside of the tank. http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-tanks-products/por15-car-tank-repair-kit.html Over five years and no further trouble. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 The slosh tank sealant sold by Moss comes from the States where they have had Ethanol for years and it is compatible. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Hi forum members, If get there I'll "fisch" the tank with a magnet an see what comes out, and clean the filter ! Report back. Shall I use the standar filter ? Thank you all. Ze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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