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Boot Lid Repair


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Hi Folks,

I'm in the process of repairing a boot lid.

The bottom section is rusty etc so I'm cutting this off and inserting a full width repair section.

 

I normally joggle the top of the repair section so that it fits inside (forward) of the lid skin.

 

My question is -

is there any reason why I shouldn't joggle the bottom edge of the boot lid skin so that the repair section fits against the outside (rear) of the lid.

 

My reason for asking is that the boot lid has some uneveness apprx where the bottom edge of the repair would be and joggling the lid would/may address htis problem.

 

Roger

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Joddling the boot lid will probably be your best bet as it will then leave the exposed bit of the joint inside lower down and not so visible. Only use the minimum of the repair section that you can get away with i.e. keep the repair as low as possible. The main reason for this is so you don't lose the curve of the lid. The rear of the boot lid is a compound curve and its very easy to end up flattening the curve out. Dont forget measure twice and cut once! When fitting the repair section if you intend seam welding then leave a 1/4" gap between the repair section top edge and the joddle to give you room for your weld. If its possible to beg/borrow or hire a spot welder then that will join the two panels with less heat and the edge of the repair section can then fit right up to the joddle. Either way when welding only do short sections of weld or a couple of spot welds to a time and let it cool to avoid distortion. Lots of on and off of the boot lid will be needed to get everything to sit correctly. Dont forget to fit the rubber seal and the lock as its very easy to get things mis aligned otherwise. You will find that the bottom lip of the repair section doesn't match the bottom of the aperture very well so a bit of leading of the lip may well be needed When you have finished then seam seal the inside join to prevent any water ingress.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

many thanks for the info and pics.

My repair section will be apprx 3.5 to 4" deep due to some previous damage. :o

Having the joggle on the lid itself will help remove some of this .

 

Hopefully I shouldn't need to lead load the bottom of the repair section as I have made a jig that incorporates the shape :blink::lol:

 

I was aghast at the cost of these simple sections :angry:

 

Roger

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I was aghast at the cost of these simple sections :angry:

 

Roger

 

Yes so am I hence the usual make your own ;) Though it can get involved if the inner section is missing as well :(

Stuart

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Hi Stuart,

I've made a jig for the inner section as well.

The finished result is quite pleasing to the eye.

My only problem is that I don't have a bending frame as long as the rib so I have to bend it by hammer around a former/G clamps/blocks etc - still looks OK though.

 

What fun!!

 

I started playing with this repair last week but after two days stood in my garage my hip started to ache.

So on Saturday/Sunday I did some gardening - hip is a lot better, but now my whole body aches :blink:

 

Roger

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Hi Stuart,

I've made a jig for the inner section as well.

The finished result is quite pleasing to the eye.

My only problem is that I don't have a bending frame as long as the rib so I have to bend it by hammer around a former/G clamps/blocks etc - still looks OK though.

 

What fun!!

 

I started playing with this repair last week but after two days stood in my garage my hip started to ache.

So on Saturday/Sunday I did some gardening - hip is a lot better, but now my whole body aches :blink:

 

Roger

 

I get the same problem fitting interiors. Not that supple anymore ;) Just double check the lock location as it can be critical.

Stuart

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