tr6tuga Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 On the way for a weekend, with a garanty of reliability to my suspicious wife, just round the corner, clink clank... Clutch disk pulverised ! After several breading of ideas, gearbox out, new repair kit, new disk and plate kit. Now is time make shure that everything fits, and the question is: Previous owner replaced the same parts less than 5.000km, (that's 3.100 miles) What, were, how should I check the missalignement, if there is, betewn engine/clutch/gearbox ? It's a 1971 TR6 PI continental spec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 On the way for a weekend, with a garanty of reliability to my suspicious wife, just round the corner, clink clank... Clutch disk pulverised ! After several breading of ideas, gearbox out, new repair kit, new disk and plate kit. Now is time make shure that everything fits, and the question is: Previous owner replaced the same parts less than 5.000km, (that's 3.100 miles) What, were, how should I check the missalignement, if there is, betewn engine/clutch/gearbox ? It's a 1971 TR6 PI continental spec To the best of my knowledge, the transmission is aliged to the engine by a close fitting dowel, the input shaft by the pilot bushing and the disc by the input shaft. If the disc is not aligned, the trans will not mate to the engine. In short, alignment was not the cause of your premature failure. I think the most likely cause was a defective disc or less likely driver abuse (the former owner, of course). You should, of course, make sure that the new clutch is not slipping due to a hydraulic problem. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) As Tom has hinted at, in some cases premature clutch disk failure has been put down to an insufficient number of rivets holding the center spline boss to the friction annulus. If you can post a picture of the broken item on here, the gurus may be able to give an opinion as to whether that was a likely cause of failure. If you do a search for clutch failure on the forum you should be able to see what I'm on about. Update: Here's the thread, scroll down to Mad Marx. Make sure you have the correct bell housing bolts in place when you mate the gearbox to the engine. Two of the bolts, can't remember which, act as alignment points. They are a close fit and replace the dowels used for alignment on the 4 cylinder engines. Here's a thread on that subject. Welcome to the forum by the way. Edited February 10, 2011 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Thankyou all for the hints I'll look on this weekend and report back. By the way it was on my to do list replace the bearrings on G/B, 1, 2 and 3th were already singing ! Just remember what about the spigot bush on the flyweel ? premature brake due to dowels miss a aling ? Be in touch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 One cause of premature clutch plate failure is a rear engine plate that isn't straight/flat. The bellhousing and gearbox are then slightly mislaigned to the long axis of the engine. While you have them apart, straight-edge the plate - in fact removing the plate and bench testing it even better. Will it lie absolutely flat on a flat surface? EG, kitchen work surface while 'er indoors is outdoors. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted February 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 Thanks John and Tom You were right there lies the origin of my blues! And by the way the former disk was the wrong one with one bolt! It all is coming together Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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