Life wasn't meant to be easy

[littlejim]

While sorting out the ammeter wiring I've also been doing a bit of tuning, adjusting the settings for the electric fan and electric water pump, as well as trying to get rid of the wobbly needle in the tacho, and working out why the fuel filter always looks empty. During all this I've had an annoying harmonic vibration in the bonnet (forget the US translation - hood?).

Today after I sorted out the fuel filter the world turned upside down and the vibration stopped.

the keepers on one of the lugs at the back of the world emblem on the bonnet shook off, and it turned upside down. (I've been trying to figure out what the tinny vibration was for quite a while.)

To put the world badge back on I will have to take the bonnet off again, or will I take the grille out? . I'm sure the b*gger who designed it that way is peeing his pants with pleasure at causing me all this hassle.

(Thought somebody who was having a rotten day would like to hear about somebody else in the same boat.)

[harrytr5]

How about clear silicone to stick the badge back on?Worked for me when refitting my TR5 Badges.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

[littlejim]

Thanks Harry,

sounds like a good idea to put some on the back anyway as an anti-rattle measure.

[littlejim]

Just in case somebody is having a lousy day I thought this might cheer them up.

After working through the ToDo list I found I had time to undo the bonnet bolts to get at the back of the badges on the bonnet.(They came loose remember.)

I thought it would be a pain, but I'm starting to enjoy bonnet removal, it is beginning to become a hobby; (could be the folic acid they've started putting into the bread here.)

Will give me chance to respray the bit inside the bonnet where some cleaning up went disastrously wrong.

Could have another go at the outside to see if I can get it from dull satin to satin.(Isn't life wonderful?)

Edited August 17, 2010 by littlejim

[Ian Vincent]

Jim,

 

I do enjoy reading your posts, I find so many echoes of my own experiences in them; like when do you find out that you have left out an essential bit? - Answer, moments after you have inserted the split pin and opened it out or replaced the standard nut you have been using for trial fits with a nyloc one or bent the antilock tabs!

 

My standard practice when I arrive at a milestone - like the finishing the assembly of the front suspension / hubs is to stop short of final tightening & split pins etc until after I have had at least 24 hours to think about what I have forgotten.

 

My wife has got used to me walking around with a distracted and distant expression on my face while I do this thinking. She recognises it as 'that bl**dy car again!'

 

Rgds Ian

[RogerH]

LJ,

just to cheer you up.

When doing my rebuild in the 90's I had to fit new floors/inner sill/outer sill.

The floors went in OK

The inner sill went on OK

The outer sill went on OK

 

However (there is always an However!!!)

The end caps didn't. They are a sort of 'D' shape but the vertical leg has a joggle in it.

I had aligned the inner sill with the edge of the floor.

 

Off with all the pretend spot welds holding the inner in place.

 

Roger

[littlejim]

LJ,

just to cheer you up.

When doing my rebuild in the 90's I had to fit new floors/inner sill/outer sill.

The floors went in OK

The inner sill went on OK

The outer sill went on OK

 

However (there is always an However!!!)

The end caps didn't. They are a sort of 'D' shape but the vertical leg has a joggle in it.

I had aligned the inner sill with the edge of the floor.

 

Off with all the pretend spot welds holding the inner in place.

 

Roger

 

Snap!

Had the same experience. After getting all the edges lined up front and back, top and bottom, etc., etc., for the sills the end caps were only roughly the correct shape.

That part on my car is more of a sculpture out of MIG weld, done with the angle grinder.

Years of carving amalgams eventually paid off.