malcolm Posted May 2, 2004 Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 I've had a very busy weekend but finally got the replacement engine installed in my 2L FHC. Unfortunately now I can't get it started I'll look at it again tomorrow, but think I have covered all the obvious things: I have fuel (the pump is ok and there's petrol in the carbs and on the plugs). The firing order is correct and the rotor arm starts in the right place - i.e. cylinder 1 at TDC. I've done the static timing and set it at 10 degs before TDC (as per Haynes - it's been ages since I did a 2L). There are sparks at the plugs - i've taken them out and stuck them on the block and can see that they are sparking. But it won't fire. What now?? Any ideas gratefully received.... Malcolm. p.s. The spark looks a bit weak so I'm giving the battery a full charge overnight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest hodgie Posted May 2, 2004 Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 Remote possibility as it would probably start up and run (albeit all over the place) but I had a problem with my 2litre lump a while back with regard to firing orders. The Engine (in an early FHC) was intended for the American market and the Haynes Manual I was using was for a UK car. The firing order is different. I only found out after DAYS of fiddling. Unlikely, but worth a mention. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted May 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2004 Thanks Hodgie. Got it sorted out now. The timing was 180 degs out, thus spark and compression not together. Moved the leads round 180 degrees and started straight away. Thanks (and also to Kyle who mailed me with advice) Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted May 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2004 I've been out on a test drive and the car was running like a dog. A quick tweak of the carbs and all is now OK I suspect a couple of hours tuning and balancing the carbs is now in order and will be attending to this soon. Amazing what you can achieve with a little money, a lot of time and some valuable advice :cool: Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris turner Posted May 4, 2004 Report Share Posted May 4, 2004 Malcolm, with a carbalancer from Gunsons and a cheap Co meter you can get really good results, if yoiu dont have a Co meter set the carbs on the emmissions equipment when it goes for its MOT. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted May 4, 2004 Report Share Posted May 4, 2004 But it won't fire. What now?? Any ideas gratefully received.... I have an Idea on how to get it to fire. :laugh: TR7 cure-all. Only kidding mate, I respect your lifestyle choice. Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andrewt Posted May 5, 2004 Report Share Posted May 5, 2004 I find it interesting that Robgeev dislikes Tr7's & 8's so much that he always reads the 7/8 forum????? Is he really in denial i wonder....grin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rosey Posted May 5, 2004 Report Share Posted May 5, 2004 Malcolm, with a carbalancer from Gunsons and a cheap Co meter you can get really good results, Malcolm, I tuned my engine with the gunson carbalancer and a colourtune I have had for about 25 years. I got perfect results and it sailed through the MOT emmision test. I burnt my knuckles a few times on the exhaust manifold when swapping the colourtune to other cylinders but hey, it's all about pain owning a 7. Now if only I could cure the oil leak with the same technique? ??? Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted May 6, 2004 Report Share Posted May 6, 2004 I find it interesting that Robgeev dislikes Tr7's & 8's so much that he always reads the 7/8 forum?????Is he really in denial i wonder....grin. It's fun round here, nothing much goes on in the 4+6 forum, you lot are good for a bit of "harmless" fun. I particularily enjoy a little sport with good old Malcolm. Rob. :blues: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted May 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2004 Carbs tuned now. Not perfectly, but it idles OK and feels good to drive again It is overheating now though. Lets' see: overheating, radiator is mostly still cold and there is water dripping from that orifice behind the inlet manifold. Water pump? Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted May 7, 2004 Report Share Posted May 7, 2004 dripping from that orifice behind the inlet manifold. Malcolm. Orifice? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted May 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2004 It's a Triumph slant-4 thing Rob. So for some reason the designers couldn't be happy with an external water pump driven by a belt in the 'normal' fashion. Instead the pump is jackshaft driven - embedded in the block, beneath the inlet manifold. The usual sign of problems is a dribble of water from the hole/slot I'm referring to. Unfortunately the pump is a b*gger to change. The inlet manifold has to come off then you have to find a way of extracting the damn thing. Oh what fun awaits..... Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rosey Posted May 7, 2004 Report Share Posted May 7, 2004 don't forget it's a left hand thread on the pump bolt will you? Dave ??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
martynharrison Posted May 8, 2004 Report Share Posted May 8, 2004 I'm way, way too late to observe that that was exactly the same problem me and Andy had with the red/black engine swap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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