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andrewt

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About andrewt

  • Birthday 03/04/1967

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    Aberdeen, Scotland. Home of the best roads in the UK.
  1. Hi Dave It's as big a job as it sounds in the manual. Basically strip the entire dash etc out to get to the heater assembly. When you are in there take the time to replace the hot water pipes to the matrix as the original ones have a habit of corroding, also take some time to adjust EVERYTHING flap & controls wise before you put the dash back in, as it's extremely difficult once it's all assembled. Cheers Andy
  2. or if it's the old style opus one inside the distributor, i gave up with them & fitted a lumenition to it instead. Same one after 15 years, just remember to clean the optical eye with a cotton bud when you do an oil service. it took me a while to figure that one out when i started getting misfires. All the best Andy.
  3. Assuming you have a 5 speed axle, hten the Rover SD1 Watts linkage can be utilised. You need the diff cover & entire linkage from the Rover. This bolts onto the Tr7 axle. You then need to shorten the links to suit & make up brackets to mount onto the chassis rails. This is not to difficult with some fabrication skills, but note that as an ideal the bolt centres of the link outers should be aligned such that thelinks are horizontal at the cars noraml ride height. if careful note (and pictures) of the set up on the Rover is taken, this will act as a guide on how to make it fit the Tr7
  4. andrewt

    Windscreen

    Hi Guys For the two screens i have removed from factory built cars, i found they both almost fell out of the car, once the stainless surround was removed. this is because the wire to heat the seal starts off the curing reaction, which then merrily continues. Once started it keeps on hardening (slowly), until eventually (after 20 years) it is so hard it starts to crack. i would recommend using the modern adhesives now. A nice tip is to paint a border on the glass before gluing in so a neat balck line is presented, instead of a wavy black sealer line. I used blackboard paing for this as it st
  5. Hi Kevin The first V8 i did i used the standard Tr7 gearbox mounts & SD1 engine mounts. I cut off the SD1 mounts from a rover subframe, bolted them to the engine and lowered it to where it needed to be. (Where the sump lines up with the Tr subframe). Then fabricated brackets to the Tr subframe. The problems with this are: 1 The SU carbs will not clear an early bonnet, but may clear a double bulge later bonnet. 2 You need the TR8 radiator mounts or fabricate something, you also need to find P6 pulley, alternator bracket & water pump. 3 The SD1 manifolds won't fit. You need Range
  6. The 4 speed & 5 speed also used different axles, and different rear brakes. The 5 speed has bigger rears, so measurting the drum diameter should be a good indicator of the gearbox. i don't have the exact details of sizes, but that shouldn't be hard to find. Hope that helps.... andy...
  7. Quite a common place for them to leak is the flange that holds in the sender unit. This is a bayonet style locking ring, but as th tank corrodes, the flange on the tank weakens, so it no longer seals the sender properly, then it leaks down to that level. (About 1/2 tank!) If this is the case the simplest repair is a new tank. This also means removing the rear axle, so a good excuse to replace the bushes! Cheers Andy...
  8. Allan Sorry i don't know the numbers concerned, but if your distributor has points it is from a pre SD1 engine, probably P6 Rover. If it has factory electronics it is probably SD1. The P6 is usually a high compression engine. What carburation are you using on it? Is all the inlet tract standard? Maybe you have K&N's fitted or an uprated exhaust (& manifolds?) If this is the case, your carb needles also need consideration. If the needles are standard & other areas are changed, then you may be too lean under load. Rimmers or S&S will be able to advise the best needles if you de
  9. Alan Basically there are 3 distributor styles. 1 Pre SD1, this has a peg on the bottom of the dizzy which locates into the top of the oil pump. The cam drives the dizzy which in turn drives the pump. 2 SD1 to last series 1 Discovery/MGRV8. THis inverts the dizzy to drive interface, but has OPUS or better electronics instead of points. the early OPUS doesn't like heat build up, especially when ther is no engine driven fan to cool it. The later external style ignitions are better. I use an early one with a lumenition. no problems ever, as long as i clean the optical pick up every year or two!
  10. Assuming it is sparking OK, the source of the spark is less important than the timing. As such it is definitely worth ensuring you get a distributor from a manual transmission SD1 (ideally a Vitesse) as the manual cars had significantly different advance curves to the auto cars. This can make 10-15 hp difference from the same base/idle timing. If that is what you already have and it is the old OPUS amplifier playing up, one of the best options is to replace the ignition amplifier with a Lumenition one. This will give years of reliable service. Mine is 12 years old & needs no more maintena
  11. Ally It sounds like it could be that the battery or earth connections are not making good contact. I would check as above then clean up all the battery / battery lead contacts and make sure your earths are all clean and electrically sound. Grease these up once they are clean with petroleum jelly to keep them clean. Andy
  12. Kevin This may be obvious, but the bush will only fit when there is no column through the hole, you have to kind of squeeze it into a heart shape to get it in. Long nose pliers work for this! It will recover, honest! For the UJ, then there should be no play in it at all. If there is play this will make the steering wheel have loose play, so it ends up like an American movie car, as any play in the UJ is magnified at the wheel. These joints are not too expensive so I recommend replacing them often, as the proximity to the exhaust manifolds seems to roast the grease out of them! If you have t
  13. Marvmul may well have meant a spacer inside the body of the damper. this would limit the extension but not increase the closed length. It does means dismantling the damper though which could almost certainly not be done at home. I did get Bilstein to rebuild my rear dampers & shorten them, but as my closed & open length were both too long i got them to reduce the body length & reduce the piston rod length, thus the suspension now bottoms on the bump stop but the spring cannot fall out on full droop. This is really only practical on something like a competition damper which is des
  14. Les Questmead would be the guys as they are AP specialists. If you let them know the number of bolts, the existing disc size & what you would like, they will be best placed to help. From memory our discs are 10.5" x 3/4" wide Group 4 Forest discs, the same as Mk2 Escorts etc use.... Andy
  15. Paul An air damper will do no harm, thats for sure. what you also might consider, if you are going to change your plumbing, is to buy a filter adapter or filter take off with an integral thermostat. Thus the cooler & lines will be bypassed when you start from cold or after an hour or two stopped. it will also help the oil to heat up quicker, but not reduce the good effect the cooler has when it is needed. This is the set up i have to install in my car, the problem i have is the car is so much fun to drive i can't seem to get it off the road to do all the work i have planned for it. oh
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