Keith Wigglesworth Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 Hi Richard I will be at Malvern on Sunday. Sounds like you have a bit of play elsewhere but the wheel bearings. Great care is needed with taper rollers to make sure you have 1 1/2 to 2 flats of the nut backed off to give the right clearance. Too tight and the bearing may fail. Get someone at Malvern who know about TR front ends to give it a wobble and advise. Regards Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 (edited) Great care is needed with taper rollers to make sure you have 1 1/2 to 2 flats of the nut backed off to give the right clearance. Too tight and the bearing may fail. Get someone at Malvern who know about TR front ends to give it a wobble and advise. Hi Keith, Long time no speak. I'm in the middle of some Triumph Service Information research and came across the following one. Reference is Sports/10/R - accessible on the Teri Wakeman site. It relates to TR3 Disc Brakes, and the text quotes : The adjustment of front hub bearings is most important due to the plane in which the friction disc rotates, excessive clearance of the hub bearings being shown up as "rock" of the disc. Excessive rocking" of the disc is undesirable and may result in excessive brake pedal travel before the friction pads contact the disc. The enable a specially fine adjustment to be made with the castellated nut, two holes have been drilled in the stub axle which allows an adjustment of half a flat. It is essential that the minimum amount of movement at the wheel rim is established and it is recommended that this is obtained as follows: (a) Slacken off the adjusting nut two turns and rock the wheel in order to position each bearing against its end location. (b ) Slowly rotate the nut with the fingers until all wheel "rock" is eliminated. © Rotate the nut in an anti-clockwise direction until a slot in the nut lines up with one of the two holes in the stub axle. (It will not be necessary to rotate the nut more than half a flat) (d) Insert and lock split pin. I don't know if repro stub axles have two holes drilled, but the intention seems to be to tighten by hand then back off the minimum to allow the split pin to be inserted. Not quite as much as 1 1/2 to 2 flats. AlanR Edited July 19, 2010 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 The service bulletin is interesting and perhaps also reflects the fact that at that point disc brakes would have been new territory for most owners (and, indeed, mechanics). A little bit of pad knock back comes with the taper bearing territory if they are set up properly. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 A really enjoyable weekend at Malvern.I thought that, with advice fromk the forum, we were finally out of the woods with the mixture.The pinking has gone and the car was flying down to Malvern late on Friday. A quick inspection of the plugs, next day, showed lots of black soot. Darryl at Racetorations, who built the engine for me, took one look and suggested moving the jet up by 4 flats on the adjusting nut. A quick blast to Upton to buy food and after a further plug inspection, they showed up just right with no soot and the correct brown colour. So now all I have to do is remember to use top fuel and all will be well. On the way home the guage showed very low and the only available fuel was regular unleaded. I put in £15.00 worth and travelled the next 98 miles with no sign of pinking.This was a major suprise and I am wondering what could have been in the suspect fuel, at the beginning of all this, to contaminate the tank for the next 700 miles. On the other hand I took my car to meet some old friends and he felt much better after the outing and has now stopped sulking. Thanks to everyone who has helped me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Hi Richard, good news indeed, well done. Glad it's all sorted. As for what was in the tank, your guess is as good as mine. I'd suspect stale petrol, and/or separation of the additive components and/or water being absorbed by the ethanol content. It could be worse, one of our V8s is up in the air with the tank out as a result of **** fuel and resultant separation/absorption . . . . draining and flushing the tank was the only solution in the end. In the past 3 or 4 years I've heard of far too many **** fuel episodes, and seen several at first hand, but not yet an incidence relating to Shell fuel. I've also heard from several motor trade chums that Shell testing procedures at their fuel outlets are more rigorous than the average fuel company. Quite possibly a connection there then !! Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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