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Diagnostic instrumentation - any suggestions?


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I'm incurably curious, and I've been toying with the idea of adding some instrumentation to my 6 to watch what's going on behind the scenes. I'd love some suggestions as to what to use, and how to fit it.

 

Firstly, I don't aspire to having an extra binnacle/pod grafted on top of the bonnet (!). What I'd really like would be a small digital display which I could switch to display whatever data I wanted. Is there such a package, i.e. a selection of electronic senders, plus a central switch/display unit? Failing that, I could put a few round gauges in the space where the radio normally resides - I haven't even refitted my radio after removing it before Christmas to do some repairs to the centre console.

 

Next, what to measure. Here's what I've got on my list so far:

- Manifold vacuum

- Fuel Pressure

- Oil temperature

- Overdrive oil pressure

- Is there anything worth monitoring in the ignition?

- Anything else?

 

As I said at the beginning, I'm simply curious. I don't really expect any revelations, but I may be able to identify & diagnose problems a little more easily. Any suggestions welcome.

 

John

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Hi John,

 

How about fitting a Lambda sensor to the exhaust manifold so you can monitor the oxygen content of your exhaust!!

 

Graeme

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Given the fact that most TR people don`t use the car except DUO how about fitting an A.R.S. - advanced rain detector which as the name implies forecasts rain showers long enough ahead to stop somewhere and put the hood up :D
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Hi John - just interested in why you would want to monitor manifold vacuum?

 

Apart from oil temp, I would have thought the most important thing to watch would be the fuel pressure, although I haven't done any investigations to find the required bits.

 

......oh and then there is that really important sensor that all the posh cars have and that's the low fluid level on your windscreen washers  (you may be fortunate enough to be able to get one with a cute chiming bell!........ :D

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John,

That post date IS the 11th, not 1st?

 

If you're serious, have a look at the Stack Dash Display system.   Does everything you want and then some - if you want to spend nearly £1.5K.   Spend twice as much and you can have it all on the steering wheel, just like Herr Schumacher OR on your in-car videoscreen.

 

See the Demon Tweeks catalogue for instance.

 

John

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Hmm...do I detect a note of mirth in some of those replies? Surely not! Anyway, in answer to the questions,

How about outside temperature
Not much point. The temp here in Sydney so rarely drops below freezing that I don't need to worry about it.

 

How about fitting a Lambda sensor to the exhaust manifold so you can monitor the oxygen content of your exhaust!!
Sounds a bit high tech to me. And I'm not going to breathe the exhaust, so why do I care? ;)

 

Given the fact that most TR people don`t use the car except DUO how about fitting an A.R.S
Well, mine is a daily driver - I commute in it, rain or shine. And I use radar to get forewarning of showers - is this an ARS (sic)?

 

Hi John - just interested in why you would want to monitor manifold vacuum?

 

Apart from oil temp, I would have thought the most important thing to watch would be the fuel pressure, although I haven't done any investigations to find the required bits.

 

......oh and then there is that really important sensor that all the posh cars have and that's the low fluid level on your windscreen washers  (you may be fortunate enough to be able to get one with a cute chiming bell!........

Manifold vacuum drives the PI, and I've fitted a modified cam (with a fair bit of overlap), which will affect how much vacuum is generated. When setting up the CU, I need to know what range of vacuum the engine really operates under, rather than rely on the manual.

 

As to the bits for fuel pressure, I have a take-off on the top of the MU. It's a large brass screw, which I can remove and replace with an adapter for a gauge. I'll probably use the same gauge I got to test the overdrive pressure.

 

If you're serious, have a look at the Stack Dash Display system.   Does everything you want and then some - if you want to spend nearly £1.5K.   Spend twice as much and you can have it all on the steering wheel, just like Herr Schumacher OR on your in-car videoscreen.
Well I'm serious, but not that serious! I did find the Stack website, but that's much more than I'm looking for. And as for wheel mounted etc, no way.

 

I suppose a more practical approach would be to simply use a rolling road - which I will do anyway. Only two more tasks to do before I've completed my overhaul of the entire engine - I have a recon inlet manifold & throttle linkage on order, and I need to do something about my dizzy (which appears to be very worn). Once I've done those, it's off to the dyno.

 

I would still be interested to hear from anyone who knows of a cheap alternative to the Stack system (an industrial unit perhaps, with no logging or pretty graphics?). In the meantime, I'm delighted to have brought light entertainment to all you Luddites :D.

 

John

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Manifold vacuum drives the PI, and I've fitted a modified cam (with a fair bit of overlap), which will affect how much vacuum is generated. When setting up the CU, I need to know what range of vacuum the engine really operates under

 

Hi John - I agree with your sentiment but feel that once all is setup, it cannot be controlled (?) - so I was wondering of what use it could be in the cockpit while driving (unless you're thinking of trying a blower or VVT!). I have a similar setup to you and have installed an auxilliary vacuum tank to ensure a couple of extra brake applications (which I hope to never need:)

 

On the subject of vacuum, do you find that after the engine has been switched off and the vaccum in the brake booster has time to bleed off, that it takes a few revolutions when re-starting to get enough vacuum to actuate the metering unit to dispense the correct amount of fuel for ignition? I have been using a small amount of choke (for a split second - and connected to the metering unit only) to deliver some fuel without vacuum when starting hot. I put it down to an idiosyncrasy of the MPI. (Sorry for hi-jacking the topic!!)

 

Cheers

Roger

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I added a lambda sensor to my 6 as I wanted to understand a bit more about how the mixture was peforming in on-the-road conditions (non-standard engine and metering unit). The collector pipe (6-3-1 exhaust) was adpated to take the sensor and I leave it bolted in all the time. I only connect the reader (a very sensitive digital multimeter) when I have changed a setting or have a problem. Sensor cost £18 (cheapest one I could find).

 

Very handy to have for carb cars (perhaps less so on fuel injection) but it is interesting to see how the car responds mixture-wise (my car tends to run rich - as most do!)

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Mark V,

 

Can you tell me what Lambda sensor you are using, the cheapest I have seen so far is £28, but it is for a MGF,(YUK).

Dare I fit that?? Also is it a four wire type or not?

 

Graeme

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Graeme,

I'll take a look, I think I still have the box. I called a local motor factors and asked for the cheapest (Camberley, Surrey). Its not a 4 wire (unheated). The sensor heats up almost instantly, maybe due to freeflow exhaust or the positioneing at the collector?

 

Will check it our tonight for you.

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If you're interested in retaining an original look and using Smith's instruments, then the Gower Oaks site is very good. They will not only supply/refurbish your existing instruments, but also have a range of self-design ones as well (see Green Gauges). Ebay is a good source as well.

 

Without adding in EFI style sensors, there are about 7 auxiliary functions to measure: fuel, charging current, battery voltage, oil temperature, oil pressure, coolant temperature, and time. Try fitting all these on a standard TR4/5/6 dash though! I'm planning to replace the useless (and dangerous!) potentiometer in the middle of the dash with an oil temperature gauge so I've got 5 30mm gauges on the dash. In addition, getting the mechanical temperature gauges is nice as they have a 270º movement (why can't electrical ones do this?) - and these can be positioned on the lower row. I will also replace the ammeter with a voltmeter as I really don't like the idea of all the charging current going behind the dash (with my 36 year old wiring).

 

Piers.

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