rpurchon Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 this might be of interest to someone. aldon/petronix style conversion for sale on ebay. item no 120463206228. Electronic Kit Lucas 22D6 25D6 Jag Triumph Austin Rover £22.00 n t d w m. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 this might be of interest to someone.aldon/petronix style conversion for sale on ebay. item no 120463206228. Electronic Kit Lucas 22D6 25D6 Jag Triumph Austin Rover £22.00 n t d w m. richard Hi Richard http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1 I have no idea what make that is do you? Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted September 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 Hi Richard http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1 I have no idea what make that is do you? Cheers Guy probably chinese copy.but no doubt there all made in china anyway. good price even it lasted a few years. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted September 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 this might be of interest to someone.aldon/petronix style conversion for sale on ebay. item no 120463206228. Electronic Kit Lucas 22D6 25D6 Jag Triumph Austin Rover £22.00 n t d w m. richard i was going to buy a 123 electronic distributor.i bought some bits to convert my rev counter etc. but been a tight yorkshire man? theyre a bit pricey.ill wait untill the euro goes down in value. and they come down in price. i decided to buy one of these £22 jobs of ebay. easy to fit about 5 min. tryed the timing light on front pulley before and after, and the timing marks dont jump about no where near a much. starts and runs fine. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pogo Posted September 22, 2009 Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 Surely it would be better with a lid on? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted September 22, 2009 Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 i was going to buy a 123 electronic distributor.i bought some bits to convert my rev counter etc.but been a tight yorkshire man? theyre a bit pricey.ill wait untill the euro goes down in value. and they come down in price. i decided to buy one of these £22 jobs of ebay. easy to fit about 5 min. tryed the timing light on front pulley before and after, and the timing marks dont jump about no where near a much. starts and runs fine. richard Richard, When i had an aldon on mine, i found i needed to sand the bottom edge of the rotor arm slightly, due to the circular magnet on the spindle. Worth checking Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted September 22, 2009 Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 i was going to buy a 123 electronic distributor.i bought some bits to convert my rev counter etc.but been a tight yorkshire man? theyre a bit pricey.ill wait untill the euro goes down in value. and they come down in price. i decided to buy one of these £22 jobs of ebay. easy to fit about 5 min. tryed the timing light on front pulley before and after, and the timing marks dont jump about no where near a much. starts and runs fine. richard so you reckon its a good product if i buy one, did you notice an improvement in pick up etc cheers david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted September 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 so you reckon its a good product if i buy one, did you notice an improvement in pick up etccheers david at £22 its good value.the last condenser i bought cost £5 it did seem smoother.but i only went a couple of miles. guy. it does mention to check rotor arm in the destructions the only time my 6 broke down was when the condenser packed up on the motorway.i havent got a condenser now? touch wood. apart from the spare one in the boot that is. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yorkkie Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 (edited) will it work with the ballast or not? Surely the wiring would need to be changed to get rid of the ballast that is integrated into the wiring loom. so if you have to buy a non ballast coil it gets a little more expensive Andy Edited September 23, 2009 by Yorkkie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 will it work with the ballast or not? Surely the wiring would need to be changed to get rid of the ballast that is integrated into the wiring loom. so if you have to buy a non ballast coil it gets a little more expensive Andy The eBay as says: Standard points type non ballast coil (sold seperately) is needed with this unit That is pretty typical, these puppies need the full 12v to work. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted September 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 will it work with the ballast or not? Surely the wiring would need to be changed to get rid of the ballast that is integrated into the wiring loom. so if you have to buy a non ballast coil it gets a little more expensive Andy standard or sports coil. no ballast. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 Time will tell Richard, good luck with it but I would keep the points and condenser in the boot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yorkkie Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 I am going to give it a try Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 I am going to give it a try Andy I wouldn't Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 [/b][/font]That is pretty typical, these puppies need the full 12v to work. Stan, by 'these puppies' do you mean Aldon/ Pertonix Ignitor type systems in general or just chinese versions? My Aldon Ignitor works fine with a ballasted coil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 Stan, by 'these puppies' do you mean Aldon/ Pertonix Ignitor type systems in general or just chinese versions? My Aldon Ignitor works fine with a ballasted coil. Chris, it has been a while since I messed with a Pertronix system and they may have evolved but at the time the unit wanted a 12v supply so if you were using a ballast resistor you had to connect it on the outboard side of that resistor and if you have a ballast wire like my federal TR6 you can either convert the whole thing to a 12v system (eg Lucas sport coil, bypass the ballast) or wire up the Pertronix so that it gets an independent 12v from somewhere other than the coil. I'm currently using a 123Ignition system and it also wants to see 12v. Rather than run more wires I just converted the system to full time 12v with the sports coil, a trivial operation on the 74 US TR6 where bypassing the ballast wire just requires moving a wire from the starter relay to the adjacent fuse box. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 Chris, it has been a while since I messed with a Pertronix system and they may have evolved but at the time the unit wanted a 12v supply so if you were using a ballast resistor you had to connect it on the outboard side of that resistor and if you have a ballast wire like my federal TR6 you can either convert the whole thing to a 12v system (eg Lucas sport coil, bypass the ballast) or wire up the Pertronix so that it gets an independent 12v from somewhere other than the coil. Stan, That's interesting. Although I said that my system is running fine (and it is), I have nothing to compare against, as I have only ever driven one TR6. The Aldon Ignitor was fitted by the previous owner about 4 years ago and I didn't inherit a copy of the installation instructions when I bought the car. From the history file, however, I can determine that the Ignitor, coil and ballast block were all purchased at about the same time so I concluded that this was the required set -up as the '71/2 PI ran 12v unballasted in normal trim. I now wonder if, assuming that the Ignitor can cope with 12v continuous feed, (it gets 12v on cranking) I would be getting a bigger spark and even better performance. What do you think? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 Stan, That's interesting. Although I said that my system is running fine (and it is), I have nothing to compare against, as I have only ever driven one TR6. The Aldon Ignitor was fitted by the previous owner about 4 years ago and I didn't inherit a copy of the installation instructions when I bought the car. From the history file, however, I can determine that the Ignitor, coil and ballast block were all purchased at about the same time so I concluded that this was the required set -up as the '71/2 PI ran 12v unballasted in normal trim. I now wonder if, assuming that the Ignitor can cope with 12v continuous feed, (it gets 12v on cranking) I would be getting a bigger spark and even better performance. What do you think? If you have a ballast resistor block somewhere near the coil I'm guessing that your ignition is getting its power from the 12v side of that resistor and you should be all set. In my case the only power to the coil (after starting) is via a ballast wire so there is no opportunity to get to 12v at the coil so requires either a separate 12v feed or eliminating the ballast (bypassing it) entirely and using a 12v coil which is the path I took. If you have a 12v ignition unit and it is getting power from the low voltage side of the ballast (eg from the coil +ve terminal, downstream of the ballast resistor) I'm surprised it would even work unless the unit specifies an operating range from 6v up which it may well do.. Post some pictures Chris and lets have a look at what your setup looks like. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted September 25, 2009 Report Share Posted September 25, 2009 (edited) If you have a ballast resistor block somewhere near the coil I'm guessing that your ignition is getting its power from the 12v side of that resistor and you should be all set. Post some pictures Chris and lets have a look at what your setup looks like. Hi Stan, You were correct. The Ignitor has a 12v feed (red wire) from the tag at the top of the Ballast block which is where the original ignition feed comes in. But thinking about it, all the ignitor does is replace the points and condensor, so the only reason for fitting a ballast resistor and ballasted coil must have been to aid cold starting. I guess the only remaining question would be whether I can get a better spark from a decent 12V coil than I can from the 9V Luminition, currently fitted. Edited September 25, 2009 by Ragtag Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted September 26, 2009 Report Share Posted September 26, 2009 Hi Stan, You were correct. The Ignitor has a 12v feed (red wire) from the tag at the top of the Ballast block which is where the original ignition feed comes in. But thinking about it, all the ignitor does is replace the points and condensor, so the only reason for fitting a ballast resistor and ballasted coil must have been to aid cold starting. I guess the only remaining question would be whether I can get a better spark from a decent 12V coil than I can from the 9V Luminition, currently fitted. Chris, I could be wrong but I think the ballast was added to protect the points and if you remove the points and replace them with an electronic system you will get a stronger spark from an un-ballasted 12v coil. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted September 27, 2009 Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 Chris, I could be wrong but I think the ballast was added to protect the points and if you remove the points and replace them with an electronic system you will get a stronger spark from an un-ballasted 12v coil. Stan Hi Stan, Thanks for talking this through. I think we are agreed that my set-up is not ideal. As I said before, the PO purchased the ballast, ballasted and Ignitor all at the same time so maybe he was either badly advised or didn't know what he was doing! Anyway, I am going to switch to a 12V sports coil and see if there is an improvement. As it happens, I need a new ballasted coil and resistor for my Bobtail so I can recycle in that direction. Win Win Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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