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Track control arm removal


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Hi all

 

I am trying to remove the track control arms from my daughter's '7' to renew the bushes and ball joints, but cannot get the inner track arm bolts out.

They seem to have rusted within the old bushes and so far I have tried copious amounts of penetrating oil and belting them with a club hammer without success and also have tried to saw through the bolt, but haven't got far with that attempt either. I thought about grinding off the head and threaded end of the bolt either side of the mounting bracket, but can't get the grinder in there so any other ideas?

I would prefer not to use heat as my garage is attached to the house and the smell of burning rubber would not go down too well.

 

Regards

Lee

Edited by LEETR4A
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Just removed some track control arms from a spare (very rusty) subframe where this was a problem - my solution was to cut the subframe up.

 

This doesn't really help you but have you tried something like 'shock and unlock' from halfords?

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Guest Wayne S

The bushes in the track arms have a metal collar in them that the bolt passes through, it must be that that has rusted to the bolt.

 

Heat may well help but I think even if you can melt the bush the collar wont withdraw through the bolt hole in the subframe. You certainly dont want to be cutting subframes if you can help it.

 

The only other thing I can suggest is HSS hire have some handy reciprocal saws that you might be able to into the gap between the the track arm and the subframe to cut the bolts.

 

Its a real pain in the A**E tho becuase even when the bolts are free and the bushes are new you still have to whallop the track arms out of the subframe with a coppermallet!

 

Might be worth getting involved over at www.forum.triumphtr7.com to see if anyone there has some ingenious solutions....

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Lee

 

I appreciate the intregal garage / naked flame scenario but are you able to get a kettle or thermos flask of boiling water poured over the offending bolt ?

Repeated application, combined with a little persuasion with a club hammer may just shift it.Put the nut back on the end of the bolt, to provide a greater surface area to hit.Penetrating oil, in betweeen the kettle boiling up again, will all help.

 

Put some newpapers down to catch the drips.

 

Another thought, can you get a ball joint splitter in there ?

 

Good luck with it.

Bob

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Oh dear - I feel I may have been a bit reckless mentioning cutting things up! - If it all goes wrong I have a spare subframe you can have for the cost of postage - it is rust free but lightly dented underneath.

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Hi all

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try the reciprocating saw method and hopefully that should solve the problem.

 

Regards

Lee

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Hi Lee,

as you probably know part of the problem is that you are hitting against a rubber bush so nearly all the shock of the hammer blow is lost.

Somehow you need to squeeze the bolt in such a way that the rubber bush has no further to spring and then clout it with the hammer.

G-clamps, sockets lengths of steel tube are coming to mind.

 

Roger

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