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  • Birthday 08/02/1953

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A in Dodge Viper blue
    TR7 convertible about to be fitted with a 3.9 efi V8
    Saab 9-3 convertible daily driver

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283 profile views
  1. Hi guys Thanks for the replies, it does seem to be the logical answer. I already have a switch with the extra connector for a warning light, Just have to alter the wiring and fit it. Both pumps will be individually fused and have their own relay. Cheers
  2. Hi all I am fitting a swirl pot with a low pressure and high pressure fuel pump to my V8 efi conversion. I also want to fit a fuel inertia cut off switch, but not sure which way to do it as I can see four possible options. 1. Wire the switch to the high pressure pump 2. Wire the switch to the low pressure pump 3. Wire both of the pumps through one switch 4. Fit two switches, one for each pump. Which is the recommended method please Cheers Lee
  3. Hi all I got my clutch back a couple of weeks ago and i'm very pleased with the result. Precision Clutch Company fully rebuilt the cover assembly as original complete with a new 18 finger pressure plate. They also replaced the friction plate as they had the correct one in stock and replaced the bearing and all for £180 including shipping. Just waiting for the flywheel to come back from being skimmed and then the reassembly begins. Lee
  4. Hi Thanks for the replies Robin and Peter. I posted on the TR7 forum site, but didn't get much response so I have spoken to the Precision Clutch Company who are going to refurb my existing clutch. I will let you know how it turns out. Cheers Lee
  5. Hi Mike Sadly 190+ views and no responses to what I considered would be a straight forward question to those who have done a V8 conversion. Someone must know. Also some kits have covers with 15 fingers instead of 18 as on my old one and a different number of springs on the friction place. Why is there a difference? Lee
  6. Hi all I am replacing the clutch on my TR7 V8 project and just need a bit of clarification on the correct one to fit. The old clutch kit is a 9 1/2 inch Borg and Back non self centering unit, the pressure plate has no numbers stamped on it and has 18 fingers. The friction plate has the number 53005 stamped on one side and 47810 stamped on the other. I have done a bit of research and can't find much in the way of identifying which kit these come from, but have found that Borg and Beck use kit number HK8899 for the Rover Sd1 and TR8. Before spending out I just need to confirm that this is the correct clutch kit for my car which has a 3.9 efi Range Rover engine and a TR7 LT77 gearbox. Thanks in anticipation. Lee
  7. Hi all I'm sure this topic has been covered in the past, but want to get some feedback on my idea. I'm mid way through a 3.9 efi conversion and i'm looking at other front brake upgrades than the likes of Robsport and Rimmers etc. The car will be running on MG TF 15" alloys and I have found that Sierra Cosworth 2wd 283mm dia front discs are almost the same height as the original TR7 discs and could be redrilled for the correct PCD. Has anyone tried fitting these and also has anyone fitted MG TF 160 AP Racing 4 pot calipers and if so what modifications were needed and will they fit under the 15" wheels? Thanks in advance for any feedback
  8. Hi all I will be starting a V8 conversion to my TR7 this winter and have a couple of initial questions. I have acquired a 3.9 efi engine which has come from a TR7 that was dismantled and on looking at the engine number have found that the original number has been ground off and MGS1063 stamped in its place. Does anyone know what this is as I presume it was done by an engine builder, but have had no luck in trying to trace it. The second is, does anyone have any experience of BCC Brakes. I spoke to them at the NEC about a brake upgrade and although they cover all other TRs they don't do a kit for the TR7, but I am currently in contact with them to see if they can devise one. Thanks for any help Lee
  9. LEETR4A

    Brake problem

    Hi Roger I use silicone fluid in both the 4A and now the 7 and have had no problems so far that I can say have been caused by the fluid. I still need to get to the bottom of the problem with the 7 brakes, but as I said I'm pretty sure it is the seal kit. I'm going to get one from a different manufacturer and see what happens. Regards Lee
  10. Now if only I had won the Euro millions on Friday Regards Lee
  11. LEETR4A

    Brake problem

    Hi Bula I bought a LDV 400 Leyland DAF (not Convoy) brake master cylinder and servo off ebay that has 3 outlets although you blank one as it is not needed. I couldn't get my master cylinder and servo to work, but I now think I bought an iffy seal rebuild kit. I will buy another kit and try again when I get the time. The Sherpa servo operating shaft which contacts the master cylinder is a different length to the originali TR7 servo and I found that when I bolted them together the master cylinder shaft was pushed too far into the bore and locked the brakes on. This is why I bought a matched Sherpa master cylinder and servo. I use Dot5 brake fluid. Hope this helps Regards Lee
  12. LEETR4A

    Brake problem

    Thanks guys for the info. My daughter and her boyfriend successfuly got to Le Mans and back and the brakes were fine apart from the long travel. I'll have another go at bleeding them now the car has got some miles on it. The car hadn't turned a wheel since 2003, was only driven about 15 miles the night before the trip and the only issues were a loose fan belt, a slight shunt up the back by another group member at a set of lights (no damage to the '7') and the viscous fan and coupling coming adrift at 110kph on the motorway run back to the ferry. Luckily it damaged the radiator, but didn't puncture it so we managed to coax the old girl home. An electric fan will be fitted. What a baptism for all concerned including the '7'. Lee
  13. LEETR4A

    Brake problem

    Thanks for the feedback. I spoke to both S&S and Robsport and there is no modification needed, the unit bolts straight in. I have moved on from there as I may have a problem with the master cylinder so I have refitted the original TR7 master cylinder and servo. After a lot of grief I have managed to bleed the system and have good pressure on the pedal when pressed. The problem now is that when I start the engine the brake pedal goes halfway without any pressure and then the brakes bite. Surely there should be less travel with the aid of the servo. I have tested the pressure balance unit, re-bled the system (there is no air coming through) and checked the one way valve on the servo. Any ideas as my daughter is desperate to take it to CLM in 2 weeks. Regards Lee
  14. Hi all I've uprated the brakes on my daughter's '7', but for some reason I can't bleed the system. It has EBC discs and greenstuff pads up front and uprated shoes at the back. I fitted new copper pipes and stainless braided hoses and to finish off have also fitted a master cylinder and servo from a Sherpa van. The problem is that when I try to bleed the brakes the fluid doesn't pump into the system, I just get some air and a few dribbles of fluid and that's it. Ive removed the two pipes from the brake pressure reduction valve and expected to see fluid pump out when pressing the brake pedal, but nothing. I've removed and stripped the master cylinder again to check that I had rebuilt it correctly, but all is fine. I can even pump air through the master cylinder apertures and all seems ok so now I'm running out of ideas and the mot is booked for tomorrow. I bought the master cylinder and servo as a matched pair form a Sherpa breakers and it has all new seals fitted. Any ideas? Regards Lee
  15. LEETR4A

    MGF Alloys

    Hi guys Thanks again for the replies. I have ordered a set of Freelander studs and MGF nuts as a long term answer as I doubt I will have time to swap them before my daughter drives with us to Classic Le Mans next month. In the meantime I will make sure the nuts are kept tight. Regards Lee
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