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  • Birthday 08/02/1953

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A in Dodge Viper blue
    TR7 convertible about to be fitted with a 3.9 efi V8
    Saab 9-3 convertible daily driver

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  1. Thanks again for the replies. I like the idea of using the breather pipe as the fuel return, someone else has also suggested that as an option plus it is easy to do. I will use the extra tank outlet as it is a bigger diameter for feeding the low pressure pump and swirlpot and blank the original outlet. The idea of the low pressure pump is more a belt and braces job to ensure there is always enough fuel in the swirl pot.
  2. Thanks for the replies guys. The Sytec pump I am fitting is equivalent to the Bosch 044 so that should be ok. The return fuel pipe will be going to the tank via the swirl pot, i'm just not sure if the return fuel should go in to the top of the tank which will be a pain as the tank is now back in the car or can enter through the original outlet which can be below the fuel level in the tank, but will be the easier option. The rest of the efi system is standard Range Rover Classic 3.9 hotwire with a 14 CUX ECU that came with the engine although I will also be fitting a fuel pressur
  3. Hi all I'm about to plumb in the efi system on my TR7 V8. I will be fitting a swirl pot with high and low pressure fuel pumps close to the fuel tank, but as I've not done this before I have a couple of questions and hopefully someone must have done this before. 1. I plan on using a Sytec OTP017 high pressure pump rated at 201litre/hr at 3 bar, but not sure which electric low pressure pump to use before the swirl pot. 2. Where do I run the return fuel pipe to. The fuel tank has a new outlet in the base so can I run the return pipe to the original outlet by the float assembly or s
  4. Hi guys Thanks for the replies, it does seem to be the logical answer. I already have a switch with the extra connector for a warning light, Just have to alter the wiring and fit it. Both pumps will be individually fused and have their own relay. Cheers
  5. Hi all I am fitting a swirl pot with a low pressure and high pressure fuel pump to my V8 efi conversion. I also want to fit a fuel inertia cut off switch, but not sure which way to do it as I can see four possible options. 1. Wire the switch to the high pressure pump 2. Wire the switch to the low pressure pump 3. Wire both of the pumps through one switch 4. Fit two switches, one for each pump. Which is the recommended method please Cheers Lee
  6. Hi all I got my clutch back a couple of weeks ago and i'm very pleased with the result. Precision Clutch Company fully rebuilt the cover assembly as original complete with a new 18 finger pressure plate. They also replaced the friction plate as they had the correct one in stock and replaced the bearing and all for £180 including shipping. Just waiting for the flywheel to come back from being skimmed and then the reassembly begins. Lee
  7. Hi Thanks for the replies Robin and Peter. I posted on the TR7 forum site, but didn't get much response so I have spoken to the Precision Clutch Company who are going to refurb my existing clutch. I will let you know how it turns out. Cheers Lee
  8. Hi Mike Sadly 190+ views and no responses to what I considered would be a straight forward question to those who have done a V8 conversion. Someone must know. Also some kits have covers with 15 fingers instead of 18 as on my old one and a different number of springs on the friction place. Why is there a difference? Lee
  9. Hi all I am replacing the clutch on my TR7 V8 project and just need a bit of clarification on the correct one to fit. The old clutch kit is a 9 1/2 inch Borg and Back non self centering unit, the pressure plate has no numbers stamped on it and has 18 fingers. The friction plate has the number 53005 stamped on one side and 47810 stamped on the other. I have done a bit of research and can't find much in the way of identifying which kit these come from, but have found that Borg and Beck use kit number HK8899 for the Rover Sd1 and TR8. Before spending out I just need to co
  10. Hi all I'm sure this topic has been covered in the past, but want to get some feedback on my idea. I'm mid way through a 3.9 efi conversion and i'm looking at other front brake upgrades than the likes of Robsport and Rimmers etc. The car will be running on MG TF 15" alloys and I have found that Sierra Cosworth 2wd 283mm dia front discs are almost the same height as the original TR7 discs and could be redrilled for the correct PCD. Has anyone tried fitting these and also has anyone fitted MG TF 160 AP Racing 4 pot calipers and if so what modifications were needed and will they fi
  11. Hi all I will be starting a V8 conversion to my TR7 this winter and have a couple of initial questions. I have acquired a 3.9 efi engine which has come from a TR7 that was dismantled and on looking at the engine number have found that the original number has been ground off and MGS1063 stamped in its place. Does anyone know what this is as I presume it was done by an engine builder, but have had no luck in trying to trace it. The second is, does anyone have any experience of BCC Brakes. I spoke to them at the NEC about a brake upgrade and although they cover all other TRs they don't do
  12. Hi Roger I use silicone fluid in both the 4A and now the 7 and have had no problems so far that I can say have been caused by the fluid. I still need to get to the bottom of the problem with the 7 brakes, but as I said I'm pretty sure it is the seal kit. I'm going to get one from a different manufacturer and see what happens. Regards Lee
  13. Now if only I had won the Euro millions on Friday Regards Lee
  14. Hi Bula I bought a LDV 400 Leyland DAF (not Convoy) brake master cylinder and servo off ebay that has 3 outlets although you blank one as it is not needed. I couldn't get my master cylinder and servo to work, but I now think I bought an iffy seal rebuild kit. I will buy another kit and try again when I get the time. The Sherpa servo operating shaft which contacts the master cylinder is a different length to the originali TR7 servo and I found that when I bolted them together the master cylinder shaft was pushed too far into the bore and locked the brakes on. This is why I bought a matc
  15. Thanks guys for the info. My daughter and her boyfriend successfuly got to Le Mans and back and the brakes were fine apart from the long travel. I'll have another go at bleeding them now the car has got some miles on it. The car hadn't turned a wheel since 2003, was only driven about 15 miles the night before the trip and the only issues were a loose fan belt, a slight shunt up the back by another group member at a set of lights (no damage to the '7') and the viscous fan and coupling coming adrift at 110kph on the motorway run back to the ferry. Luckily it damaged the radiator, but didn't
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