StevedTR4A Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Can you help please. I am slightly confused by the Haynes manual. Can I use the trick of placing a piece of polythene film over the filler thread of the fluid reservoir (on a 3A) to stop the fluid draining when I remove the old cylinder and hose?. Is the sequence for changing the cylinder. 1) Remove old cylinder and hose 2) Fit new cylinder and hose 3) Bleed 4) set rod & fork adjustment What should the adjustment gap be between the locknut and fork end face.The manual states .079 in for a 3A and .010in for a 4 & 4A. I have a 59 3A with girling type slave cylinder which I believe is also used on a 4. So, I guess the gap should be .010in. ( Is there such a thing as a .079in feeler?) confirmation much appreciated cheers Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 The factory workshop manual says 0.1" clearance "between operating piston and push rod". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Can you help please. I am slightly confused by the Haynes manual. Can I use the trick of placing a piece of polythene film over the filler thread of the fluid reservoir (on a 3A) to stop the fluid draining when I remove the old cylinder and hose?. Is the sequence for changing the cylinder. 1) Remove old cylinder and hose 2) Fit new cylinder and hose 3) Bleed 4) set rod & fork adjustment What should the adjustment gap be between the locknut and fork end face.The manual states .079 in for a 3A and .010in for a 4 & 4A. I have a 59 3A with girling type slave cylinder which I believe is also used on a 4. So, I guess the gap should be .010in. ( Is there such a thing as a .079in feeler?) confirmation much appreciated cheers Steve If I remember rightly you were going to change the brake fluid anyway and as the clutch is fed from a seperate (centre tube) part of the fluid chamber then I would allow the old fluid to drain out and then change the cylinder. Also new type cling film (horrible stuff that I always struggle with when using anyway!) will probably dissolve with any contact with brake fluid. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Hi Stuart, when you think about it, cling film isn't that good if you can simply unroll of the roll - where does the cling come in. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Hi Stuart, when you think about it, cling film isn't that good if you can simply unroll of the roll - where does the cling come in. Roger Thats usually my problem. I can never get it off the roll and then it all sticks together and I get annoyed and it goes in the bin! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StevedTR4A Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Thanks Guys I mentioned using polythene because that is what it states in the Haynes manual. However it only refers to this in connection with the master cylinder on a TR4. When it refers to the TR3 reservoir is states to drain the system. I just wondered if this technique of using a piece of polythene/ plastic film worked with the reservoir. Stuart - I already did the brakes and they are much firmer. I found the Vizibleed "one man system" no problem to use. I will allow the fluid to drain away when I change over the clutch cylinder. thanks. Is the push rod clearance adjustment critical? I now have the gap as .010in, or .079in between lock nut and fork end (from Haynes manual) and .10in between push rod and piston from factory manual. thank you for your on going support Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 (edited) The factory workshop manual says 0.1" clearance "between operating piston and push rod". Steve, Note that my comment above is from the TR4A workshop manual. I've just realised you are actually referring to a TR3A, for which the factory manual does indeed say "turn the jam nut until a 0.79" feeler gauge will pass between the nut and the fork end". I'm now as confused as you Edited July 11, 2009 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StevedTR4A Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Thanks Brian Maybe there is someone out there who has the definitive answer. - Is this some critical dimension only known to the chosen few? cheers Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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