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TR2 Alarm/Immobiliser


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Has anyone any recommendations or horror stories about fitting an alarm/immobiliser to a TR2? Is the positive earth a concern for these devices? Or can you just buy a bog standard device off the shelf and pop it in in 5 minutes (as described on the box!)?

 

All views gratefully received

 

Thanks

Rod

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Hi Rod,

 

An immobiliser is pretty easy to add using relatively cheap parts, (see attachment). Alarms for positive earth are not so easy to find.

 

 

 

The diagram is for a TR4A so your ignition switch may not be the same, but pin 2 is battery connection and pin 3 is for starting (yours might have a starter button instead, but the same approach will apply).

 

The white/red wire is the normal starter wire, which you move from the solenoid to the relay.

 

Good Luck

 

TT

 

Has anyone any recommendations or horror stories about fitting an alarm/immobiliser to a TR2? Is the positive earth a concern for these devices? Or can you just buy a bog standard device off the shelf and pop it in in 5 minutes (as described on the box!)?

 

All views gratefully received

 

Thanks

Rod

Edited by tthomson
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I immobilise my 1958 TR3A buy removing the rotor. I also have a "crook-hook" that I hook behind the clutch pedal - up to the steering wheel and a "club" across the steering wheel. I turn off the petrol stop-cock and zip the tonneau cover closed to confuse and delay anyone. If someone really wants to steal my TR, he will arrive with a flat-bed and lift it to steal it. I would hate that to happen as I have owned it now for 51 years.

Edited by Don Elliott
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I immobilise my 1958 TR3A buy removing the rotor. I also have a "crook-hook" that I hook behind the clutch pedal - up to the steering wheel and a "club" across the steering wheel. I turn off the petrol stop-cock and zip the tonneau cover closed to confuse and delay anyone. If someone really wants to steal my TR, he will arrive with a flat-bed and lift it to steal it. I would hate that to happen as I have owned it now for 51 years.

The relay in the diagram would have to be quite hefty as the starter solenoid coil tales a fair current. You could use the same idea with the supply to the ignition coil, but at the end of the day all you have to do to bypass such devices is link the battery negative straight to the coil then start it by temporarily linking the battery negative to the starter solenoid.

 

So I agree with Don, best to use some mechanical device and remove a part the car needs to make it run.

 

Graham

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