young Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Hi Guys - Can any one please help - I am having terrible trouble with the master cylinder on my TR2 It has been rebuilt on several occasions and the braking system is all brand new. However the system still pressurises after several miles. I have finally given up with it and have decided to go to a 3A master cylinder and braking system. Could anyone please tell me what parts are required and/or if anyone has any of the parts necessary for sale I would be pleased to hear from you? Looking forward to your response. Cheers, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Hi Guys - Can any one please help - I am having terrible trouble with the master cylinder on my TR2 It has been rebuilt on several occasions and the braking system is all brand new. However the system still pressurises after several miles. I have finally given up with it and have decided to go to a 3A master cylinder and braking system. Could anyone please tell me what parts are required and/or if anyone has any of the parts necessary for sale I would be pleased to hear from you? Looking forward to your response. Cheers, Steve Check the adjustment of the pushrod which goes into the master cylinder. If there's insufficient free play the piston in the master cylinder will not be able to fully return and the system will pressurise. Had this problem years ago on a Minor 1000. JeffR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
young Posted April 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Thanks for that Jeff but I have exhausted all possibilities with the master cylinder. It has been in and out the garage on numerous occasions and I am definitely going for the 3A system now. Cheers, Steve Check the adjustment of the pushrod which goes into the master cylinder. If there's insufficient free play the piston in the master cylinder will not be able to fully return and the system will pressurise. Had this problem years ago on a Minor 1000. JeffR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 ... I am definitely going for the 3A system now. Make sure you keep the old master cylinder together with associated parts and pipework, as any prospective purchaser (should you ever need/decide to sell) will almost certainly want to return it to original. I can't believe this is an insoluble problem - perhaps you are using the wrong garage? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Steve Some years ago I changed my front drum brakes to early disc brakes but although they were a great improvment over the drums, I did find that they would bind and get very hot. I cured this very simply by removing the check valve from the rear of the brake cylinder bore in the master cylinder, in other words, I assembled it exactly as the clutch bore. This valve is there to maintain slight pressure in the brake fluid system to reduce brake "knock off". I have never found this to be a problem and only get slightly more pedal travel even after very hard cornering. My TR2 had five years of everyday use like this and never gave any cause for concern. Worth a try before you start splashing out dosh. Les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Are all brakes binding or only the front wheels? If only the front brakes are troublesome, check the valve on the splitter near the right front wheel (can't remember the correct word for that thing now...) Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
young Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Many thanks for all your replies. I will give it another look but any further advice or info would be appreciated. Steve Steve Some years ago I changed my front drum brakes to early disc brakes but although they were a great improvment over the drums, I did find that they would bind and get very hot. I cured this very simply by removing the check valve from the rear of the brake cylinder bore in the master cylinder, in other words, I assembled it exactly as the clutch bore. This valve is there to maintain slight pressure in the brake fluid system to reduce brake "knock off". I have never found this to be a problem and only get slightly more pedal travel even after very hard cornering. My TR2 had five years of everyday use like this and never gave any cause for concern. Worth a try before you start splashing out dosh. Les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Webster Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 (edited) Hi Guys - Can any one please help - I am having terrible trouble with the master cylinder on my TR2 It has been rebuilt on several occasions and the braking system is all brand new. However the system still pressurises after several miles. I have finally given up with it and have decided to go to a 3A master cylinder and braking system. Could anyone please tell me what parts are required and/or if anyone has any of the parts necessary for sale I would be pleased to hear from you? Looking forward to your response. Cheers, Steve Internally collapsed flexible pipe? Nick Edited April 20, 2009 by Nick Webster Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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