Weather is going to be great overhere, so...

[Menno van Rij]

As said, the weather is going to be great overhere. So it's going to be TR time!

 

But before I'm going to enjoy some glorious hours, first a question re. the carbs. Before I took the car off the road a few years back, I noticed that the rev would come down only slowly when I had to wait for traffic lights etc. I blamed the pistons inside the carbs. When I removed the air cleaner, I noticed that one of the pistons was stuck and would only come down ever so slowly. I restored the carbs and took great care that both pistons would move freely and would be able to come down smoothly. During all tuning work the carbs behaved brilliantly. However, I noticed the same hitch last week. After a drive (engine fully warmed etc), the revs will only come down ever so slowly: starting at about 1700 rpm. it takes about a minute for the revs to come down to the 950 mark. A short blip on the throttle will help to lower the revs faster. So, I'm rethinking my carb restoration: did I overlook something?

 

What's your experience and what can I do to overcome this?

 

Have a great Easter Weekend!

 

Menno

Edited April 9, 2009 by Menno van Rij

[BrianC]

I have a similar 'problem' with my TR3A, although revs are about 300 lower than yours. I haven't checked to see if the pistons are sticking (unlikely) as carbs were rebuilt by reputable specialist. I just hook the accelerator pedal back when it happens and the revs drop right down immediately, so I guess an extra return spring somewhere on the linkage would solve the problem. I seem to recall having a similar problem on my previous TR3A but can't remember where I attached the extra spring (it was a long time ago).

Just enjoy the car - problems like this often disappear once you get some mileage (kilometrage?) on the clock.

[Menno van Rij]

Brian,

 

Reading your reply, I think that it could be the answer. When I tuned the carbs etc, I was always leaning over the engine, pulling and pushing the accelerator linkage by hand! I'm sure you know what I mean. I never touched the pedal before I really started driving the car. I will investigate your idea and when it works, I will pull out some kind of spring to pull the pedal linkage.

 

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

Menno

[Don Elliott]

Menno - Just like Brian, it always happens to me too. I don't worry about it. I have the usual return spring hooked to the tiny lug on the firewall below the starter solenoid. I drive my TR and I try not to stay stopped very long, but if I have to wait, I tuck my toe under the gas pedal and pull up on it. It's not perfect, but that's what I do instintively and I don't worry about it.

 

Just drive it and enjoy it. I know you will.

 

I was wondering about the tiny springs on the advance weights down inside the distributor. One spring is for low RPM and then above about 700 or 900 RPM (I can't remember), both the springs are working and the advance curve flattens out. The curve is in the manual in the "Electrical" section. Anyone any thoughts on this possibly being the cause ? The springs in the distributor in my 1958 TR3A are the original springs and have been there for 51 years.

[stuart]

You could always try winding the springs on the throttle shafts up a bit. Also check that there is enough free play on the linkages and that the choke fast running screw has sufficent clearance at rest. If all else fails then an extra spring on the brass lever arm where the short link at the front of the linkage joins. (Obviously not for you Don as that would lose points )

Stuart.

[Don Elliott]

And too much force in all these return springs would mean that I have to apply more pressure to accelerate. And this might cost me a tenth of a second on every shift and curve. I'd rather drive fast.

[Menno van Rij]

You were all spot on (as usual). Took off for a spin this morning. After 20 kms I made a voluntary stop and tried what you guys suggested: the revs stayed at about 1300 rpm. I lifted the trottle with the tip of my shoe and the revs dropped down to about 950 / 1000 rpm. and stayed there. Great advise you gave me.

 

I can live with the result and I somehow think that Brian is right: after a while, at the next stop, the revs dropped down by themselves. I think the linkages are a little stiff or something like that. btw Brian, 'kilometrage' is the correct term!

 

Drove about 100 kms this morning and early afternoon. All works perfectly. I even like to think that the engine is even smoother than 200 kms back.

 

 

Enjoy your weekend,

 

Menno

Edited April 10, 2009 by Menno van Rij

[Don Elliott]

Menno - The more you drive it, the smoother it will get. Your TR will improve but it's not that which will change. You will gain more and more confidence till you forget all about those little items that have been bugging you and you will just drive it and enjoy it for what it is. Just a car. But what a car ! They just go and go. In 2000, I had the crank ground and put in a new modern rear main bearing seal. A week later I left on a 7250 mile trip across USA and Canada - and back. In the spring of 2007, I took out the engine, rebuilt it completely (94,000 miles since the previous time) and a week later, I left for Pennsylvania on a trip that totaled 2550 miles. These TRs can be very reliable when you leave home, knowing that it's all been done correctly. At that time I did not own a mobile phone nor a CB. You garage at home is the place to work on your TR. Not in the rain at the side of the road during the night.