TRE Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 Hi- during my alternator conversion I removed the water pump & housing to clean & repaint before fitting the new pulley. The inlet for the by-pass hose from the stat housing, the one just above the heater return, had what appeared to be a reducer with a bore of about 5mm. On poking out the gunge with a bit of wire I found the hole didn't go right through, but was obviously placed there toblock off the flow. I've never seen this before & am inclined to either remove it or drill it out to 5mm. Any ideas as to why it might be there, or what to do with( keep it clean ), would be most welcome!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Hi- during my alternator conversion I removed the water pump & housing to clean & repaint before fitting the new pulley.The inlet for the by-pass hose from the stat housing, the one just above the heater return, had what appeared to be a reducer with a bore of about 5mm. On poking out the gunge with a bit of wire I found the hole didn't go right through, but was obviously placed there toblock off the flow. I've never seen this before & am inclined to either remove it or drill it out to 5mm. Any ideas as to why it might be there, or what to do with( keep it clean ), would be most welcome!! Hi, This by-pass is closed by the thermostat skirt when the engine is cold. Upon warming, the skirt slides ( ..) and the cooling circuit is used in full. Most peaople to day have a replacement thermostat with no skirt, so the heating takes longer. I take it this car was in a very cold area and its PO did that to increase heating speed. The stupid consequence is that the on-board heating system is shunted. I would bore the thing out and install an original AC thermostat. Revington will sell it for the price of an equal weight in gold (or that funny white powder). Cheers, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 I run a waxstat therm with the 'waxstat' bit cut out in BST82B. This gives a 1/2 inch hole through which the water travels at slightly higher speed and gives the flow a better profile. I use an alloy housing and proper water pump and have no cooling problems whatsoever on a very high power engine. If you have a uprated engine it will warm up very quickly. Use a coil earth to turn the engine a few times before fireing to get the oil moving and cut out any wear and use slick 50 or some other lubricant compound also. Regards Tony Hi, This by-pass is closed by the thermostat skirt when the engine is cold. Upon warming, the skirt slides ( ..) and the cooling circuit is used in full. Most peaople to day have a replacement thermostat with no skirt, so the heating takes longer. I take it this car was in a very cold area and its PO did that to increase heating speed. The stupid consequence is that the on-board heating system is shunted. I would bore the thing out and install an original AC thermostat. Revington will sell it for the price of an equal weight in gold (or that funny white powder). Cheers, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 For road use, the easiest "conversion" is to block the bypass hose with a lump of metal. I used a piece of brass (an old plumbing fitting) which just fitted into the top end of the hose but which wouldn't go round the bend (no Harpic to hand!). To ensure that it would never shift, I put another Jubilee clip round the hose to tighten onto this "stopper". The so-called water pump is actually a circulator, so it doesn't mind that its thrashing about doesn't cause any circulation when the coolant is cold. Obviously, one would never thrash a cold engine, so the thermostat will have opened and circulation will have commenced by the time one uses more revs. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smokey Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 The only downside to blocking the bypass is that you'll get a warped head if the thermostat sticks in the closed position, so you need to pay very close attention to the temperature gauge as you warm up. Even that may not give you enough warning due to hot spots in the head with no circulation. I've seen it happen, although not on a TR. In racing applications on a TR, the bypass may be blocked but no thermostat is fitted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRE Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Hi- thanks for all the advice fellers. Because I feel unhappy with the by-pass blocked off, I'm probably going the ' Badfrog ' route & drill it out & fit the original type stat. Now, where did I put that powder ? Regards Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Richard, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Hmmmm.....I would keep it as it is. Never touch a well running system. I run a plug in the hose with a 5mm bore. Never any trouble. Cheers Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRE Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Hmmmm.....I would keep it as it is.Never touch a well running system. I run a plug in the hose with a 5mm bore. Never any trouble. Cheers Chris Thanks for your comment Chris, but is yours bored all the way thro' at 5mm? mine is bored part way thro' only Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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