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Body alignment


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Hi,

 

I remember reading somewhere that, from production, the TR4 body tub is not central about the longditudinal axis on the chassis.

 

When viewed verticaly down the inner face of the inner wing, I can see the lower suspension fulcrum pin on the RH side but It is well hidden on the LH side.

 

Normal? or yet another defect on my "cherished classic"?

 

Regards,

 

Richard.

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There is a bit of lateral movement available on the body mounting holes as they are all larger than the bolts or studs that are used for fixing. The front wheel arches can quite often be slightly bowed in towards the centre of the car as well usually as the result of a "tap" on the front. I would check the lower edge from one to the other to see if they are the same and check the turret support bars to see if they are both straight. If you slacken off the mount behind the arch on the support bar there is a fair bit of room there to move the arch in or out to suit.

Stuart.

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There is a bit of lateral movement available on the body mounting holes as they are all larger than the bolts or studs that are used for fixing. The front wheel arches can quite often be slightly bowed in towards the centre of the car as well usually as the result of a "tap" on the front. I would check the lower edge from one to the other to see if they are the same and check the turret support bars to see if they are both straight. If you slacken off the mount behind the arch on the support bar there is a fair bit of room there to move the arch in or out to suit.

Stuart.

 

Sorry for slow reply,

 

But now that I have measured just about every part of the tub and chassis I can get to and compared both sides to each other and the blue book. You were right in another post (bumper irons) where you suggested that my chassis had spread. Finaly the body is straight, but it looks like the main chassis legs have spread outwards from the main cross beam by about 8mm, mostly on the LH side. Dispite this the metal and the welds on the inner face of the legs looks fine. (It is the outer and lower faces where the patches and rust are :rolleyes: )

 

Thanks for your insight regarding the possible movement of the front of the tub for adjustment. Will that also make my doors line up, the front wings fit and the bonnet close correctly? :lol:

 

Cheers,

 

Richard.

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Hi

 

I am busy aligning my TR5 tub on its new chassis to create a complete and well aligned car before repairing the tub.

 

I am currently trying to align the doors, when lining the front wing beads with the door glass rubber should the doors tilt inwards towars the B posts, be straight , or tilt outwards from the B posts.

 

My TR4A which is a California shell and not been off the chassis, has a straight alignment on one side and another side which tilts in towards the B post.

 

Is there a correct alignment or do you build to the best fit you can.

 

Cheers

 

Sean

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Sorry for slow reply,

 

But now that I have measured just about every part of the tub and chassis I can get to and compared both sides to each other and the blue book. You were right in another post (bumper irons) where you suggested that my chassis had spread. Finaly the body is straight, but it looks like the main chassis legs have spread outwards from the main cross beam by about 8mm, mostly on the LH side. Dispite this the metal and the welds on the inner face of the legs looks fine. (It is the outer and lower faces where the patches and rust are :rolleyes: )

 

Thanks for your insight regarding the possible movement of the front of the tub for adjustment. Will that also make my doors line up, the front wings fit and the bonnet close correctly? :lol:

 

Cheers,

 

Richard.

 

 

I also forgot to say that Ive discovered that the upper section of the LH suspension turret is twisted. No cracks found yet, but Im only half way through cleaning it.....

 

If I find that it is crack free, I was thinking of using one of the Revington adjustable upper fulcrum pins to bring the suspension back straight. Has anyone used them for this in the past?

 

Yes I know that I should take the engine out, body off, replace the chassis with a nice new one from Colin at CTM. All my other small, average and big chassis problems would be solved. But for the moment time, space and finance is not going to allow this so, as a bodge for the next 4 to 5 years, which will prevent me from destroying all my nice new suspension components what do you think..?

 

Richard.

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I also forgot to say that Ive discovered that the upper section of the LH suspension turret is twisted. No cracks found yet, but Im only half way through cleaning it.....

 

If I find that it is crack free, I was thinking of using one of the Revington adjustable upper fulcrum pins to bring the suspension back straight. Has anyone used them for this in the past?

 

Yes I know that I should take the engine out, body off, replace the chassis with a nice new one from Colin at CTM. All my other small, average and big chassis problems would be solved. But for the moment time, space and finance is not going to allow this so, as a bodge for the next 4 to 5 years, which will prevent me from destroying all my nice new suspension components what do you think..?

 

Richard.

Richard - I fitted Neil's system to my TR2 and it was easy to fit and worked fine. Even I could follow his instructions. I also fitted the rear suspension mods. But the chassis was good so I don't know if it would work in your case. Best regards JJC

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If I find that it is crack free, I was thinking of using one of the Revington adjustable upper fulcrum pins to bring the suspension back straight. Has anyone used them for this in the past?

 

Richard.

 

Good morning Richard,

Yup, I did exactly that and "dialled out" the effect of accident damage inflicted by a previos owner.

have fun

Steve

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Good morning Richard,

Yup, I did exactly that and "dialled out" the effect of accident damage inflicted by a previos owner.

have fun

Steve

 

Thanks Steve,

 

Its good to know it will work before I start. I will be looking for a second hand Revington fulcrum at Malvern. (£140 for new ones is a bit much for a tempary bodge to my chassis)

 

Did you fit the pair or is it possible to use one only?

 

Richard.

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