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Hi

Having fitted a radiator without a neck, does this mean that it will always run with some air in the system?

The filling point at the cap is about 1,5 inches below the highest poit of the system( the stat housing)

so it seems to me that one can not fill the system without having to leave some air in it,

Mind you having run the engine for tuning today it does not seem to have a detrimental effect.

Any thoughts?

cheers

John

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Hi

Having fitted a radiator without a neck, does this mean that it will always run with some air in the system?

The filling point at the cap is about 1,5 inches below the highest poit of the system( the stat housing)

so it seems to me that one can not fill the system without having to leave some air in it,

Mind you having run the engine for tuning today it does not seem to have a detrimental effect.

Any thoughts?

cheers

John

Thats why I like to fit a header tank on the inner arch at the highest point possible.. With a plain cap on the radiator and a pressure cap on the header tank. The thermostat housing is then full all the time. If you do a search on here you should find a previous thread about this.

Stuart

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Thats why I like to fit a header tank on the inner arch at the highest point possible.. With a plain cap on the radiator and a pressure cap on the header tank. The thermostat housing is then full all the time. If you do a search on here you should find a previous thread about this.

Stuart

That's the correct way to do it, if the radiator has no filler neck. The plain cap on the radiator shouldn't have an extension with valve and spring. The short pipe on the neck

of the radiator can be used for a hose or pipe to the header tank. Amongst others, an header tank of a VW Golf (Golf II or Golf III?) will do the job. The other outlet on this header

goes to the duct to the heater.

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thanks for that.

Does that mean it is not adviseble to run the system as it is now?

tx, John.

There are thousands of cars running as original so provided you can bleed the system properly (facing up hill helps) its ok. My solution is just one of the modifications that I personally feel is worthwhile and makes it easier to check levels even when hot especially if you use a moden opaque plastic one. I use the MGB (Sorry) brass type with its bracket. Painted black it looks more period.

Stuart

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Yes, I wondered how the cooling system on my TR6 managed to bleed, never previously seen a car with the rad lower than the top of the engine. :blink:

Even the heater seems to fill without airlocks.

And the head hasn't cracked, so I suppose there's no air in there either.

 

But I do have on my list fitting an air bleed valve in the heater hose immediately next to the heater tap. One day.

 

Ivor

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Hi John

 

Practically speaking, I've not experienced any problems with a set up as described without a header tank, and that's after 7000 hard miles, used every day.

 

The gauge reads on the mark. Also had to modify the position of my radiator (moved it an inch closer to the engine) which wasn't a problem as the fans been removed. (needed to shorten the hoses though)

 

Had to move the radiator as a thermostatic sensor fitted for an electric fan was fouling the bonnet bracing. When I get round to it I'll remove the sensor, blank off and move the radiator back.

 

I despatched with the thermostatic sensor and just have the fan on from go, much simpler, the engine warms up quickly anyway, and you don't have to worry about the gauge creeping up and down as it cuts in and out... you can just get on with the driving.

 

That's just my practical experience with the cooling side of things anyway

 

Cheers

 

Darren

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Hi John

 

Practically speaking, I've not experienced any problems with a set up as described without a header tank, and that's after 7000 hard miles, used every day.

 

The gauge reads on the mark. Also had to modify the position of my radiator (moved it an inch closer to the engine) which wasn't a problem as the fans been removed. (needed to shorten the hoses though)

 

Had to move the radiator as a thermostatic sensor fitted for an electric fan was fouling the bonnet bracing. When I get round to it I'll remove the sensor, blank off and move the radiator back.

 

I despatched with the thermostatic sensor and just have the fan on from go, much simpler, the engine warms up quickly anyway, and you don't have to worry about the gauge creeping up and down as it cuts in and out... you can just get on with the driving.

 

That's just my practical experience with the cooling side of things anyway

 

Cheers

 

 

 

that sounds reassuring,. Darren, thanks.

cheers

John

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Suggest you read Section B19 of the Technicalities CD - should help you. On a sealed system (as described on the CD), the header Tank does not need to be above the top of the radiator, although it is likely to be more readily accessible if it is somewhere around that level rather than buried deep down!

Ian Cornish

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Suggest you read Section B19 of the Technicalities CD - should help you.

 

 

Hi Ian,

 

Is this the CD that isn't issued to new members any more?

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Sorry, hadn'e realised that supplies of the CD had been exhausted. As an alternative to asking the Office to burn one, borrow the CD from another member and transfer the files to your PC, as I have done. That makes it so much quicker when you want to refer to the contents.

Ian Cornish

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