Magoo Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Hi all I have a TR4A and it has just failed its MOT because of too much play at the rear. MOT people suspect bearings. I jacked the car up and, yes, there is some play. It is not in/out but up/down play, if you understand me. It is not a lot but MOT's in NI are Govt run and very tight! There is no noise that I can hear. The wheel turned on the jack ok with no noise or feel of broken bearings. The big nut (not me!) holding it all together is tight. Will need a puller to explore further. Could it be that they are starting to go and this is the first sign? Anyway I have got new bearings (plus seals etc) and am getting someone to carry out the work for me. I have got the article from the TR Register Cd and some info from this Forum. However, do you think that this is definately the bearings? Could it be anything else? The CD makes the process sound difficult? Is it? Any advice? Should it be able to be done without removing the rear suspension? As always any advice appreciated John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Do you mean that, when grabbing the wheel one hand at the top and one at the bottom, you can feel soms play by rocking the wheel (pushing at the top and pulling at the bottom and vice versa)? Removing the hub bearings in notoriously difficult, and someone with the right tools will ruin one or two for repairing one succesfully. If it are the bearings, you can buy a reconditioned one, swapping for your own, or find someone who has done this job regularly. I once had noisy bearings in a TR6 wheel hub and almost no play : drilling and tapping in the hub and fitting a grease nipple allowed to get grease at the bearing : the noise had gone, but I suppose this will not do much for the play. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Magoo Posted August 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Yes, play when holding the top and bottom of the wheel. What is the reconditioned unit? What does it consist of? Is that the sort of unit Moss would provide? Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Hi John, usually when the hub has detectable play there is noise from the bearing - quite often it is the other way around, bearing noise with no play. The safest way is to put in an exchange hub and let an expert replace the bearings in your old unit at their leisure and cost. The exchange consists of the big lump with the big nut (not you) and the yoke at the back to take the UJ. This will bolt straight on. Costs vary, thus shop around. Replacing your own bearings requires a big press, DTI's and a good degree of skill in this ancient art!!! Before you go too far Is it the bearings. Have tightened the wheel nuts - I know it sounds silly. Also are the six nuts, holding the existing hub in place, tight. Worth checking. Best luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 John, relevant part no 64 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProd...ateIndexID=2355 I got a pair of recon hubs from Carl at TR Trader two years ago, or try any of the TR suppliers. Not advisable to repair your own, will probably cost more with breakages Justin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Magoo Posted August 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Hi Roger thanks. The brake drum also moves slightly so not wire wheels or loose spokes? Will check the 6(or8?) nuts holding the hub on once I expose them. Need to remove the drums etc with a puller first is that correct. Obviously I need to discuss again with the engineer beforehand to ensure he knows what he is letting himself in for! In fairness he did say that although he has not done a TR4A before he is aware of what isor might be required. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted August 21, 2008 Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 Hi John,Replacing your own bearings requires a big press, DTI's and a good degree of skill in this ancient art!!! Before you go too far Is it the bearings. Have tightened the wheel nuts - I know it sounds silly. Also are the six nuts, holding the existing hub in place, tight. Worth checking. Best luck Roger "Worth checking the six nuts" : sure, because the studs are srewed in the aluminium trailing arm, and stripping the threads of these studs is very common : when several studs have come loose in this way, you can move the wheel together with the hub housing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graham.dillaway Posted August 21, 2008 Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 Hi allI have a TR4A and it has just failed its MOT because of too much play at the rear. MOT people suspect bearings. I jacked the car up and, yes, there is some play. It is not in/out but up/down play, if you understand me. It is not a lot but MOT's in NI are Govt run and very tight! There is no noise that I can hear. The wheel turned on the jack ok with no noise or feel of broken bearings. The big nut (not me!) holding it all together is tight. Will need a puller to explore further. Could it be that they are starting to go and this is the first sign? Anyway I have got new bearings (plus seals etc) and am getting someone to carry out the work for me. I have got the article from the TR Register Cd and some info from this Forum. However, do you think that this is definately the bearings? Could it be anything else? The CD makes the process sound difficult? Is it? Any advice? Should it be able to be done without removing the rear suspension? As always any advice appreciated John John, Sounds like rear hub assembly is on the way out - TR bitz are the cheapest supplier - I bought two at the international this year for £65 each - Other suppliers are charging around £95+ vat This is definately the way to go - rebuilding will probably cost you more - assuming they can do it OK. It is not a straighforward job - big press required - collapsable spacers etc etc Changing the HUB is easy - just be careful with the six bolts holding the hub in the rear training arm - it is easy to strip the threads in the aluminium trailing arm on reassembly -probably best to fit a new universal joint as well. regards Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted August 21, 2008 Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 I know you're not supposed to do, this but it works....... if the bearings are running smoothly and there is just too much play in them, simply fold back the locking washer on the backing nuts undo the lock nut and reset the bearing preload to give the correct end float then relock and fold back the locking washer....... job done....... they are after all simply opposed taper roller bearings much like the front wheels. A big press is the route to many bent flanges....... the flange has to be bolted to a substantial metal block with a hole in the centre this in turn is attached to a bearing or hub puller of gargantuan proportions, then once the correct torque has been applied to the center spindel the whole thing has to be wacked with exactly the right force in exactly the right place....... this really is a 'Black Art'........ I've seen it done by Chris Witor of the Triumph 2000 Register..... not to be tried at home by the uninitated!! Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMS Posted August 21, 2008 Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 Guys Er Um, re-reading the original posting, i'm unsure. The reference to pullers is confusing me. Magoo Is this an Independant Rear Suspension 4A or one of the, quite rare over here, Solid Axle 4a's? To date the assumption is that it is the former and the advice that has been given is top notch for that scenario. But if it is a solid axle car all is different. Regards Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Magoo Posted August 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 Thanks for all info chaps, much appreciated. I will go the replacement hub route and send back the bearings. Seems best plan is to check the 6 bolts first. If they are ok then get new hub and replace. Most suppliers out at present but will keep trying. Have not tried TRBitz yet. Off on hols for a week but I shall keep you informed Regards John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Magoo Posted September 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Update. Got an exchange hub from Rimmer, everyone else was out of stock. Bearings had started to go when the unit was stripped down. New unit went in with no difficulty. All well, going for mot tomorrow. No problems anticipated. Thanks to everyone for their assistance and advice Regards John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.