Menno van Rij Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 Hi all, Small items take a lot of time. Earlier this week there were no brackets behind the dash, so we had to come up with some sort of solution. And we did (although hardly to see on the pics. below). This week I connected the fuel line. Last week, Viv from Down Under shared his hot wheater driving conditions with us. 42 degrees and no problems. Well, that convinced me to route the fuel pipe in front of the engine 'old school' so to say. Next was the oil feed pipe to the gauge and than the heater. I put in some rubbers between the heater and the brackets to avoid vibrations... After that, I mounted the dashboard (hence the question earlier this week). I received two PMs about the fuel tap. I've added a picture of that installation too. Have a nice weekend, Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 Hi Menno, Soon you'll come to fitting the linkage for the external vent flap. Bags of fun getting the rod adjustment just right, but easy if you have triple length fingers like Mr Tickle from Dr Seuss. You are leaning right over the car, working down through the vent with the world's tiniest spanner in hand; cussing like a bullock team driver at whoever designed the whole catastrophe. Often the vent flap doesn't sit down properly due to the height of the new seal, and I've had to pack up the hinges at the back slightly to get the flap to sit in correctly. On one car I had to cut the slot in the seal a bit deeper to lower it. There is a water sealing grommet in the large hole where the opener rod goes through to the vent. Whoever fabricated your two repro dash support brackets did a very good job indeed. Cheers for now, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 Menno its all looking very good, I see you have "Teed" the drain from the vent flap tray into the battery box drain, not sure if that is necessarily a good idea unless the drain carries on down the side of the gearbox as if using the car in the rain (you may not be going to)there would be a fair amount of water going down over your overdrive switches. It may also have been a better idea to fit the pipes to your heater matrix before installing it as they arent much fun to fit with it in place Viv your spot on wth fitting the vent flaps, they are a pain and if it doesnt sit down right its also possible for the bonnet to catch it when opening Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trevor S Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 One less job when restoring an early 2. And I was beginning to think there were no benfits Have agood weekend everyone. Trevor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 Menno - It looks super. Have you noticed those two holes in the bottom of the battery box just below the LHS of the heater ? These holes take flat head screws with straight threads and the relay for the overdrive is secured to these screws. On mine, the flathead screws were welded (and sealed) on the battery side to keep them from turning while tightening the nuts on this side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 Menno - It looks super. Have you noticed those two holes in the bottom of the battery box just below the LHS of the heater ? These holes take flat head screws with straight threads and the relay for the overdrive is secured to these screws. On mine, the flathead screws were welded (and sealed) on the battery side to keep them from turning while tightening the nuts on this side. Don arent they 2BA countersunk screws or is that what you call flathead over there? I use countersunk star washers to keep them tight, agree with you about sealing them off though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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