RobinTR6 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Just noticed a slight regular rumble , regular noise like something rubbing slightly, bearly detectable but goes on the overrun and when freewheeling, could this be a hub on way out. Do they need grease or something ?. Its a TR5 which is only just back on road for 3/4k ? Can anyone recommend anything I can do on the 'whats the problem' front, thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Wheel bearing you would hear all the time, especially when you go around the corner that leans on it. They aren't greasable afaik. You could check by unbolting the inner uj from the diff, and rotating the wheel, see if it rumbles or the bearing feels rough. If noisy only when under power, and from the rear - can be jolly hard to locate source of noise, I've given myself some real bum steers at times - then could be propshaft rear uj. Or differential. Is the 'rubbing slightly' at engine rotational speed (fast), or axle speed (slow)? Anyway, if it's a problem, it'll get louder until you can locate it. If not, it's just a feature of the car. In the meantime, try earplugs. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Wheel bearing you would hear all the time, especially when you go around the corner that leans on it. They aren't greasable afaik. You could check by unbolting the inner uj from the diff, and rotating the wheel, see if it rumbles or the bearing feels rough. If noisy only when under power, and from the rear - can be jolly hard to locate source of noise, I've given myself some real bum steers at times - then could be propshaft rear uj. Or differential. Is the 'rubbing slightly' at engine rotational speed (fast), or axle speed (slow)? Anyway, if it's a problem, it'll get louder until you can locate it. If not, it's just a feature of the car. In the meantime, try earplugs. Ivor Ivor, its axle speed and its a almost a humming , at timed intervals, and yes more axle speed and not engine. As you may remember (and ta) just did the rear suspension brackets and all eventually has been sorted with your bracket fitted upside down....., with the 3 notches. Have also eventually sorted front , well at least ther are reasonable and the same. I hope to be touring at end of the month in the TR hence the concern that something unpleasant and not readily fixable may go wrong with back end......... PS its also sounds like its only on one side , offside hence the speculation it was a hub etc..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 its axle speed and its a almost a humming , at timed intervals, and yes more axle speed and not engine. As you may remember (and ta) just did the rear suspension brackets and all eventually has been sorted with your bracket fitted upside down....., with the 3 notches. Have also eventually sorted front , well at least ther are reasonable and the same. I hope to be touring at end of the month in the TR hence the concern that something unpleasant and not readily fixable may go wrong with back end......... PS its also sounds like its only on one side , offside hence the speculation it was a hub etc..... Errrm... I suppose it's not the brakeshoes rubbing.... If I were intent on finding the source, I suppose I'd start by checking for brake drag - they can fail to retract fully if the flexy hoses are starting to collapse or the cylinders are on the way out etc etc.. Wheel bearing is normally louder when you lean on it in a corner, but you said only under drive, not overrun, and the noise from a wheel bearing is pretty constant. However, if you want to pursue that, then back off the brakes and disconnect the drive shaft as I mentioned and listen/feel the wheel bearing for smooth rotation and while you're there check the ujs for play, although you'd likely know if the ujs were u/s due to the clonk. There's not a lot of gubbins down there is there... drive shaft bearings brakes.... could still be the diff. Or maybe there's a nail in the tyre? My 6 has an annoying rattle at the front over rough roads, might be the disc dust catch plate thingies that I should have taken off when I replaced the discs, and at the back I can hear it going tisk tisk tisk kaplink ting at low speeds for some reason I can't find, like a weasel with a small drumkit, but wth if it's a problem it will tell me eventually... Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Ivor, hadnt thought of brakes so will inspect shoes etc. All pipework and pistons new but may be sticking. Post that I will look at UJs then harder stuff for which the garage will be required..... BTW fitted an oil cooler and pressure has dropped from 100 cold to 75 cold although seems to be maintaining a higher pressure when warm 35 to 50 ish. And yes have changed oil and filter and yes oil is up to the limit ? Not concerned but wondered. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I can hear it going tisk tisk tisk kaplink ting at low speeds for some reason I can't find, like a weasel with a small drumkit, Very descriptive Ivor...nice one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 BTW fitted an oil cooler and pressure has dropped from 100 cold to 75 cold although seems to be maintaining a higher pressure when warm 35 to 50 ish. And yes have changed oil and filter and yes oil is up to the limit ? Not concerned but wondered. There's a current TR4 thread about oil coolers. I posted there what I think about them, I'd take it off if I were you, but then I haven't taken mine off and I'm me. One of those 'must haves' that I now realise isn't.... there's always going to be a loss of oil pressure depending how much large the cooler is and the pipework, you should have 45-65psi hot at 2,000 rpm. I have 55psi and 25 at idle, but that depends on the idle, eh what, mine's about 800 rpm. One of these days I'll get round to an oil temp gauge and that will confirm I don't need the cooler and then perhaps I'll remove it, but having sweated to fit an oil stat I feel disinclined to remove it atm... Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 BTW fitted an oil cooler and pressure has dropped from 100 cold to 75 cold although seems to be maintaining a higher pressure when warm 35 to 50 ish. My cooler didn't reduce oil pressure at any temp or rpm when fitted, but it has a thermostat and so only operates for brief 1 sec intervals when good and hot. Then the pressure drops ~ 10-15 psi for 1 sec and after 2-3 secs overshoots by 7-10 psi before steadying again. FWIW, mine does 65 psi @ 2000 rpm when at max temp since the cooler. It was down to 50-55 psi when at its hottest, prior. It can take 30+ miles of highway cruising to reach max temp. I'm using Kendall 20W-50 which has a pressure edge over Castrol and Pennzoil of the same designation. Current mileage on the engine is 75,000. Sorry to abet the hijacking of this thread... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 (edited) Sorry to abet the hijacking of this thread... Funny thing is that Robin started this digression by hijacking himself.... Edited August 6, 2008 by 88V8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Funny thing is that Robin started this digression by hijacking himself.... Highjacking may be too strong a term, a minor deviation. Its interesting to note that generally most seem to say you dont need a 'cooler' but still have them. The infamous Roger Williams recommends that its a must if you use your TR andf I certainly use mine. However the other general consensus seems to be dont bother with a temp device to block the cooler as they are 'more trouble than they are worth'. Alright , any vies on 'Oil catch tanks' as we have digressd into the 'ol world anyway/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Alright , any vies on 'Oil catch tanks' as we have digressd into the 'ol world anyway/ Why is the 'quote' box producing huge text? Anyway.... I think there's nothing wrong with the standard crankcase ventilation system, rebreathing the fumes through the engine. It actively scavenges the crankcase and rocker box, which a catch tank doesn't. OK on a race engine you don't want oil fumes in the engine, it reduces the useful charge, but on a road engine I don't believe it makes a blind bit of performance difference, and I'm much happier knowing that the inevitable water vapour/condensation is being actively sucked out. Good to see you at Croxley, nice to put a face to the name. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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